I want to have all the switches for our kitchen in one place. So I'm hunting for a "contemporary" looking switch panel that will handle the lights and appliances. A have been unable to locate anything, via google, that would do this sort of job.
I imagine it is a bit akward handling the different rating requirements. Switching a light is a bit different to isolating a oven.
Is it possible to have a switch operating a remote solenoid for isolation of something like the oven?
Various makers supply grid switch systems whereby you can mix and match different types of switches, FCUs, neons, cord outlets, etc. And they all do 20 amp DP switches which will be ok for many ovens, but check its rating first.
For a larger cooker which needs, say, a 45 amp supply, it would be possible to use a contactor (large relay). But not really something for the inexperienced.
Both Screwfix and TLC do mail order grid components. However, there is a wider range available from a decent wholesaler. It depends on what make/style of sockets you need to match to, appearance wise.
Grid switches have a current rating of upto 20amps, and include options like 13a fuse ways, neon indicators, dimmers, etc.
I guess anything is possible, but somehow I have a gut feeling that just ain't a good idea. Pity the poor bugger who has to come and sort it out in the event of a fault a few years from now when you've sold the place and moved on.
It is possible to mix switches of different ratings in one panel by using grid system components.
These are not usually noted for their contemporary style, and I do not know any grid system that has a switch with a rating greater than 20A.
A typical cooker circuit requires a 45A double-pole isolator.
You could use a contactor to switch the oven, but you would still however need to include an isolating switch somewhere in the circuit before the contactor. You should also provide an isolating switch for the control circuit.
A contactor is not usually considered an adequate means of isolation unless it can be mechanically locked in the off position.
You should also consider some other safety aspects of your scheme, such as what happens when somebody hits the wrong switch while trying to turn on the light.
I would in any case recommend drawing a detailed circuit diagram for an unusual arrangement of circuits like this. This is so that anybody who wanted to modify or repair the installation can understand how it is wired.
If Part P is involved then you might have some difficulty getting a BCO to sign off what you are doing, as some of them seem to be confused by anything other than a straightforward installation.
You can get MK ones with all of their range of decorative wiring accessories -
Navigate to
formatting link
download the PDF on the right hand tab which is a chapter from the catalogue.
Basically you can get the modules in white or black and with or without metal caps in brass, chrome, satin,..... to match the plates.
The Grid system isn't restricted to the while plastic or the grey metal industrial system.
I used some from this range in my kitchen and wanted a particular brass plate type with black inserts. They can supply them. More obscure items can be on 6 weeks delivery and special order but are obtainable.
I have one plate with a bank of four 20A switches covering domestic appliances in the utility room. In another place there is a plate with some soft start dimmers and regular switches. Apart from the larger size of the plates they are not distinguishable from the single and double gang switch plates in the same range.
However, there is nothing of rating greater than 20A that I could find.
Note that the wall boxes are deeper than normal switch plates.
That's an important point. I suggest that what the OP proposes is a step too far and would split this into at least three blocks: lighting, cooking and other appliances. Remember that there is a requirement for clear labelling - any switches whose function is not obvious should be labelled (many electrical wholesalers offer an engraving service for this sort of thing). There's also a recommendation that cooker switches should be within 2 metres of the appliance they control. And all controls and switchgear should be readily accessible, so hiding switches in cupboards is not acceptable either.
All, Many thanks for the excellent responses. Has certainly raised some points that I had not considered. Time to return to the drawing board - I think I will certainly split these into multiple panels and skip the idea of remote switching.
Thanks to the pointers re grid panels - wasn't aware of them.
One further question - I believe the regs say that switches etc should be mounted on the fabric of the building. Are kitchen units deemed to be the fabric of the building?
I knew there was something somewhere.. Many thanks for the pointer.. Hmm "guidance" - now I have to weigh up all the pros and cons and decide if I ignore the guidance in this instance.
Assuming the units are firmly fixed to the walls, etc, I'd ignore them. After all, you can fix things like fluorescent lights to the undersides of wall cupboards, so fixing sockets to carcasses ain't that much different.
Yes, I think the advice is aimed at preventing dire practices such as having sockets for washing machines etc. fixed to 15 mm chipboard with
1/2 in. self-tapping screws, with the cable flapping around in the air - you've seen the sort of thing, no doubt. If you do a decent job with secure fixings and tidy cabling, and only fix to carcases where there's not really any other option then I can't really see anything to object to.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.