You, Sir, are my kind of man :o)
She has actually done that for the last 18 years (no heating in the kitchen in our last house either) but has now decided that enough is enough and that she wants a proper heater in there. I can't cook (48 years old and just mastered the art of beans on toast) and so the kitchen is her domain - if she wants a heater, I will provide a heater. I'm just grateful that she is a superb cook :o)
John.
On Fri, 11 Aug 2006 10:05:36 +0100 someone who may be "John" wrote this:-
Why not put the switched fused connection unit at high level and just put a cord outlet at low level behind the unit?
Well, it is almost emergency switching. Otherwise, a switch suitable for maintenance (i.e. behind the plinth) would be acceptable.
Christian.
Sounds like you've got a sweet deal there. All your meals cooked for the cost of a £200 heater. Has your wife got a sister?
Pete
Good point David but it would still have to be in the same area, ie, near the sink, so my original query still stands - could it go where I've marked it in the photo?
Or maybe you mean *very* high level such as halfway up the wall or near the ceiling? Maybe I need to take another photo showing the layout of the kitchen because I know rules and regulations are there for safety and everything but sometimes I just wonder if the rule makers have to put these things into practice :o)
Hang on everyone while I take a piccy or two......
John.
Right, here's some photos of the layout of the kitchen so that someone may be able to suggest a suitable position for this switch. For your delectation and enjoyment
Now back to the current problem.
And while I'm at it, I may as well ask you what the hell I can do on the opposite wall. Looking at
I've never seen anything like this before. How do I deal with the regs in this case? I can't get a capping on the cables so what's the technique for dealing with this?
All help gratefully received. Cheers,
John.
Well the "300 mm from sink" is only a recommendation. Your switch will be rarely used and if you can put it up high enough no to get splashed from the drainer I'd argue it's OK.
Are you going for a Part P application here? If so it's worth discussing any potentially grey areas with whoever will inspect and test.
On Fri, 11 Aug 2006 17:18:56 +0100 someone who may be "John" wrote this:-
I don't have anything to add to what others have said.
The question is, what is the switch for? My understanding, which may be wrong, is that the controls of these units can be set so that the fan will come on when the water temperature rises, the fan will then go off and on via the room thermostat and when the water cools after the boiler switches off the fan will go off again. The fan can also be switched on "permanently" via the controls on the unit, for summer use.
If my understanding is correct then the switch is not a functional one, but one for maintenance which will usually be left on. It could then be placed higher up the wall, or even by the ceiling, possibly out of reach of someone standing by the drainer. It should be labelled to indicate what it controls and the appliance should be labelled to say where the switch is.
On Fri, 11 Aug 2006 18:05:28 +0100 someone who may be "John" wrote this:-
If the cables are to run horizontally between visible fittings simply dig a bit of the cardboard out and insert cable, with something thin over the top of it and a bit of filler. I presume the wall is to be tiled.
Any daughters?
Owain
But is it suitable for isolation?
Most electronic switches aren't.
Owain
The other bit plugs in. Unplug to isolate. E.
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