Suggestions for a sliding mitering saw?

I am about to start modifying a double loft bed (Ikea Stora) into a not so high single loft bed which can take an ordinary depth single mattress. There are lots of pieces of wood that need to be cut accurately and repeatably to specific sizes. This has presented me with the ideal excuse to buy a sliding mitering saw.

Quality and accuracy are more important than an entry level type of model. I have been considering De-Walt and Makita. Any other makes worth thinking about and model suggestions?

Thanks.

Reply to
Rob
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One think you may consider is the size of work it can cope with. My current one has a 250mm blade and that's fine - the previous one with a smaller diameter not. But it depends on use, of course.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Worth bearing in mind that, once you include a sliding mechanism, accuracy is inevitably compromised. A chop saw with a 250mm blade is fine for most things.

Reply to
stuart noble

I'm sure Dave P is right, that a bigger one is better, but I have the Rage = Evolution 210mm sliding saw (a ton at Screwfix on special just now, but tha= t offer seems permanent) and it does the job for me. Seems pretty tight an= d square right out of the box and can cut a range of materials, which is us= eful if you have to cut some small steel etc items (worked a treat on some = tubing for wardrobe rails etc).

Reply to
GMM

Bosch, any model that has a large enough blade to do the job you want. I've had two now (the first did't fail in use, it was dropped over 8' onto a stone surface!), wouldn't have anything else.

Reply to
Chris Wilson

Makita LS0714. It's a little smaller than some of the site saws, but is des= igned more for furniture making or precise joinery. It is very well made, a= nd accurate. It has twin booms, and even at full extension there is no appr= eciable side-to-side movement from the head. It cuts up to 300mm wide, and = about 60mm deep. It also has a trenching facility (very useful for lapped j= oints, etc.). Mine's got a laser guide as well which is useful (good enough= for rough cutting or approximate alignment).

Whatever you end up with, consider getting a digital protractor too.

dan.

Reply to
dwtowner

I use engineers squares and blocks ... no measuring, just slide it up to (under) the blade and adjust as necessary.

Reply to
Chris Wilson

Agreed, but I was thinking more for taking a measurement off something that you then want to cut to match.

dan.

Reply to
dwtowner

Ah ... so getting it a bit right then shaving bits off until it is near enough right isn't the approved method?

:-)

Reply to
Chris Wilson

Oh that's perfectly acceptable, so long as you keep the shavings so that you can shim out the bits where you've shaved off too much :-)

Reply to
Jules Richardson

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