studding interval

[Mike]

Is there a standard interval between studding on a plasterboard wall ? should I be able to find the first studding by measuring out from an exterior wall ?

ta

[Set Square]

They're often (but not always) on 18" centres to fit 6' x 3' plasterboard sheets. The end gaps may be different if the total length isn't an integral multiple of the general interval - and there's no way of knowing which were the start and finish ends.

You can get a stud finder for a few quid which makes a reasonable job of finding the studs. It's a lot better than trying to second guess where they might be!

[Mike]

I've got an old Rapitest stud/joist/pipe/cable detector, bought 10 years ago after I detected a cable with a drill bit. Unfortunately, I've lost the destructions, and I don't know if its still working or not. It seems to be working fine when switched to 'metal' mode, (i.e. it squeals and the light comes on over a cable) - in 'wood mode' even with the sensitivity set to full, it detects nothing - put it on a windowledge and the light stays off and the very faintest of a ticking noise can be heard - might just change the battery

2 other questions - ;-) 1) the wall is an internal wall 2.4m long between two bedrooms, with only the loft above. Will there definitely be studding, or am looking for something that is not there ? 2) PP9 batteries - how come they are only ever found in devices you only use once in a blue moon, and how come their lifespan is always

[Tim Mitchell]

In article , Mike writes

I think you mean PP3. PP9's are enormous. The problem is you only get 3V off two AA's, and much electronics needs the higher 9V of the PP3 to work.

The other setting on my detector is not for wood, but for electrical cables, and I think yours might be the same.

I find studs on the metal setting, just play with the sensitivity. Even if you can't detect the stud, you should find some nails where the boards are nailed on.

[Mike Taylor]

I would beg to differ Studs, joists, refters etc normally (and I hasten to add not always) are at

400mm centres 16" in old money. Most professionals would use 2400 x1200 sheets not 1800 x 900. If the board is 12.5 mm thick then it is possible to go at 600 centres

Mike

[John Armstrong]

Have you tried leaving it in metal mode and using it to find the plasterboard screws/nails ? Don't forget that there will probably be one or more rows of noggins going between the studs, so once you have found what you think is a stud, go up and down to make sure. Are there any switches/sockets in the wall? You could (taking all appropriate precautions of course) remove the faceplate and backbox and probe through the hole to find the studs either side.

Yes, unless it is a brick/block wall :-)

[Set Square]

Yes. You may even see the tops of the uprights in the loft - but there's probably a horizontal member right over the top, so you won't.

You probably mean PP3 - which are 9v. You would need 6 AAs to get 9v. Duracel PP3s have a shelf life of quite a few years!

[jacob]

You can usually find the studs by tapping lightly with e.g. a pin hammer, and listening to the sound - it goes higher over the stud. If you do this and mark with chalk as you go you soon build up a picture. You can test for stud presence by probing with a thin bradawl or screwdriver. Do cheap stud detectors work? All the ones I've tried were no good. Metal detectors OK though. cheers

Jacob

[N. Thornton]

there are various spacings that have been used, one wall I have has irregular spacings. Just tap, where its hollow theres no wood behind, where its dull there wood there. Often you'll find 16 or 24" spacing, but no guarantees.

Although its possible to have a solid wood wall, with eg half inch ply sheet instead of framework, its very unlikely.

Regards, NT

[Lurch]

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 16:06:00 +0100, "Mike" strung together this:

No, there won't 'definitely' be studding. It could be a paramount wall which would only have a piece of 2x2 every 1200mm.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'd guess you mean PP3? AA cells to make up 9 volts would take up a lot of space. You could have an internal invertor to give 9 volts or so from 3, and indeed many pro devices use this. Not sure about the costs, though.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I replaced the PP9 in my roberts radio with a spare 8.4v Nicad pack from a toy plane. Its been great. Runing now for 2 years at zero cost of battery replacement, and my R/C charger recharges it in 20 minutes...

PP3 sized rechargeables are available as well.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I've always just used a knuckle. But I'm Scottish...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

The problem with pro gear that uses something like a PP3 - radio mics etc

- is that they are designed to be as small as possible given a reasonable battery life. And no rechargeable comes close to an alkaline in this respect.

Many churches etc will get away with using a NiCad PP3, given that they only need a couple of hours life. TV etc requires at least 6 hours so they can be changed during a break.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I wonder if they cold handle 2 cell lithium packs? I'd say you could getr up to an ampere hour at 7v or so, which wold equate to several days of use at the sort of 10-15mA thata PP3 normally is cpaable of.

I'd agree that 7 Nicads in a PP3 sized box is likley to be about 80mA/h...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Trouble with pro use is you tend to change the batteries early - just to be on the safe side. On a 'live' transmission, you'd use one set of batteries for rehersal, and then one for dress run and transmission. And since the operators rarely pay for the batteries, you want the cheapest that will just do what's needed. So rarely Duracell.

With your own kit, where you're paying for the batteries and keep a careful check on their use, longer lasting types can make financial sense. Until the spark want a freebie for his walkman, that is...