Hi all
Does anyone know a good link for building a stud wall? Need info like: Size and type of timber. Plasterboard type/thickness. Spacing of trimmers etc
Want to wall off end of room to make storage cupboard - 3m wall including door access.
TIA
Phil
Well, plasterboard is 1200mm wide, so you have the choice of spacing the studs at 600mm (cheap and quick) or 400mm (more solid).
Use 75mm x 50mm studwork. You need a footplate of the same material and a top plate over the top. Place either one or two noggins, depending on the height of the wall. Two is probably better, equally spaced between the footer and header.
Attach the studwork using skew nailing. Plasterboard over using 12.5mm plasterboard, either straight edge, scrim taped and skimmed, or taper edged, taped and filled. Use plasterboard screws. Avoid plasterboard nails.
The top of the wall need securing, to stop it wobbling, especially over 3m. How this is done depends on the situation. You may be able to attach to joists in the ceiling above.
Christian.
Whats a footplate/top-plate/noggin ?
Whats skew nailing/scrim tape
Just asking as im new to plasterboard/std wall construction too !!
-----------------A---- | | | | | | B | | | | | | | | | |------|------|--C---| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | -----------------D----
A = topplate/header B = stud C = noggin D = footplate/footer
Skew nailing is a secure and strong way of making a butt join. Obviously, perfectionists may use proper furniture type joins with mortice and tenons etc, but this is not necessary.
| | / | | / | +--------- |STUD | NOGGIN | | | +--------- | | \ | | \
The diagonal lines represent the nails. By nailing in at 90 degrees to each other, you get a very strong join that wouldn't be the case if all nails were parallel. It is best to predrill the wood, though, especially the clearance hole.
Scrim tape is a fibre backed ultra low tack sticky tape. You cover plasterboard joins with it to prevent or reduce cracking as the boards move naturally.
Christian.
Make sure that the stud wall lies either:
Otherwise the wall will only be supported by floorboards ... which is bad bad bad!
Same applies to the ceiling but it less critical as that is for stability rather than support.
I have found off-setting the noggins (horizontal spacers) rather than skew-nailing them is easier, but that's just my preference.
I'd also screw rather than nail, but again that's a preference rather than a requirement.
Ask your builder's merchant/DIY store for 3x2 "Scant" or "CLS" They will know what you mean.
Pay attention to the centre's of the vertical studs as if your plasterboard panels don't butt toghether over a stud then you are in trouble.
see
Note they say to you fit the sole/top plates first. I would build it on the floor by placing the sole and top plates on top of each other where you want the wall and then measure down from the ceiling to the top of the top plate (ensure the measurement is taken vertically!).
It usually takes a bit of umff to get the wall in place but it will pretty much self support while you get it exactly vertical and square. Put the noggins in afterward so its easy to square.
If you nail, leave the heads 5mm out until you are very very happy with the whole deal (including all other sections)!
I have used this approach on about six stud partitions of various sizes and it worked for me.
Most DIY books reccomend placing the top/soles first ... my builder mate fell about laughing when I showed him the pictures.
Alex
I prefer this style as its I found it less fiddly to make.
-----------------A---- | | | | | | B | | | | | | | | | | |------| | |------| |--C---| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | -----------------D----
| | | | | +--------- | STUD | NOGGIN |-| | | |
+---------+ +--------- | | | |-| 2 x NAIL | | +---------+ | | | | |Brilliant
Thanks to all for informative replies. One question arising, some are quoting 3"x2" and some 4"x2". Presumably the timber is fixed such that the 3" (or 4") thickness dictates the wall width? If so, is there not a standard width of stud wall? I've seen door frame sets in our local timber merchant's so I expected the wall width (thickness) would also be standard!
Phil
Certainly, there is little to object to it. It depends how the noggins are attached, really. With skew nailing it makes no difference, whilst other methods are easier otherwise.
Christian.
I've only seen references to 3"/75mm, which gives a completed 4"/100mm wall, using 12.5mm plasterboard (or skimmed 9.5mm, if BCO allows it).
Christian.
Just out of interest, what function do the noggins perform? Stiffening the frame or providing more places to screw the plasterboard?
I only ask, because one (at least) of the walls in my last flat didn;t appear to have any, given the ease I pushed a bit of oval conduit up 3/4 of the height internaly to feed a new bathroom mirror-light.
Cheers
Tim
I'd say the former, although they are useful for the later, particularly when the stud spacing is 600mm.
Christian.
In which case its better *not* to use the offset noggin method I suggested.
The plasterboard also provides a lot of stiffening too.
BTW, if you really want a stiff wall you can put diagonals in to make a lattice type wall (although I cannot think of a domestic situation where this would be required).
Alex
It can be required for structural stud walls, where the structural value of the wall is for stability of the house, resisting sideways wind loads, rather than simple gravity load bearing.
Christian.
Me too. I've used both Scant & CLS, add 12.5mm boards & skim and both are about 100mm - just the right size for standard door casings - which you will find very handy ;-)
Interesting. I had heard you can use them for suspending walls from above too.
Not really a DIY thing though as I would want some indemnity put on the calculations eh?
Alex
If it's non structural, can one omit the noggins, because it makes dropping cables down the cavity a lot easier in the future?
Tim
The wall construction described here *is* non-structural. It is physically possible to omit the noggins (!) but your BCO may have an issue with this.
I would always put noggins in and plan ahead with the wiring.
Take a look at this link, just stumbled across it myself.
Richard
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