Stud Wall Construction Confusion

[r.rain]

Hello all

Apologies for war and peace but.....

I'm building a stud wall and I'm confused on a number of points regarding the door frame. I will try and explain below:

1. The width of the door lining (frame) is 108mm wide and my studs are

100mm. With plasterboard (12.5mm) and skim this will stand proud by a considerable amount, I'm obviously missing something here anyone care to give me a lesson? Will the architrave just hide this and it should be butted up to the edge of the plasterboard?

1. Also is the door head the part that is supplied with the door lining? I have a bit of wood which has 2 rebates at each end but on the opposite side to each other and at different spacing from the ends. I'm asuming here that this is a universal door lining kit which will take 2 sizes of door and the vertical frame slots into this in a tongue and groove manner??

2. What's the best way to construct the door studs? was thinking as follows:

run 2 full length studs from the sole plate to the head plate and attach each one either side of the door opening and then cut 2 studs the height of the door and attach these to the full length studs. Cut the door head to length and attach to the top of the door height studs. This method basically eliminates the requirement to channel a recess into the door studs.

Does this sound reasonable?

1. One end of the stud wall which will only be a stud wide (2")will attach to a solid wall and I plan to drill, plug and screw this, I then plan to attach the door height stud to this, does that sound OK?

Thanks and appreciate your help as usual.

Richard

[The Natural Philosopher]

That's really a frame for a 3" stud wall I reckon. You need a deeper one..about 160mmm as you have already worked out.

Probably. Sounds a dogs breakfast to me, that kit.

IIRC my chippies ran a lintel between the studs to butt up to the frame top, then verticals from floor to that, and infilled with noggins to stiffen it all up. You may want to double up the verticals for a bit more stiffness. Yiou bneed a vertical stud from door center to cxeilng as well probably.

None of this is rocket science.

[Christian McArdle]

Not what you want to hear:

The 100mm framing is for 75mm studs with 12.5mm taper edge plasterboard with filled joints. The 108mm framing is for 75mm studs with 12.5mm straight edge plasterboard with 2x4mm skim. You need a 133mm frame.

The wall may not be exactly vertical. Ensure that you put the vertical door stud in with a long accurate level and be prepared to pack it out to ensure this.

Christian.

[Olav Marjasoo]

The lining is made for a 75 mm stud partition. Then the arithmetic works. BUT that doesn't prevent you using it in your case. You will have to fit one strip, or two, of wood alongside to bring width up to

100+12.5+12.5+8(for skims). Architrave is the decorative moulding which faces into room, and applied after skims.

Correct! I assume you bought a shrink wrapped pack at B&Q. It is intended for use on two door widths. Height you cut to your liking, carpet, vinyl etc. Cut to size. Glue up with bracing pieces, and allow to set before fitting.

Do you mean stud/stud/door lining? Ouch!! That really is heavy and unnecessary. Stud/door lining is correct. For "first class" work (heavy use, heavy door) you must rebate stud at door head. For lesser work(light door) you can screw and glue, through two (vertical) studs into door head.

Yes in theory but possibly not in practice. Wall, ceiling and floor may not be at right angles. You compensate for this by leaving a 10mm gap, or more depending on innaccuracy, between final stud and wall. Before final fixing you make it vertical, and make contact with wall by using wedges and packing pieces at drill and plug positions. This may mean you have to rework your design.

Hey! Only too glad to help. Been there done it.

-- Olav Marjasoo Overlooking the Clyde, West Coast of Scotland

[r.rain]

Thanks to you all!

Glad to see there are still some very helpful people on this forum

Richard

[John Rumm]

As the others have said, you have got the lining for a thinner wall....

Yup flip it over to select the width you want...

You could do it without the extra set of studs. The noggin above the door can be set into a mortice on the studs, although for a light weight door it would be fine just nailed/screwed in place.

One handy trick I was shown once, was to fit the lining with only three or four screws each side, in a vertical line down the the centre of the lining (i.e. under where the door stops will go). Then hang the door. Now fix the stops. Then on the opening side of the door, cut some small wedges (say 25mm long by 5mm thick at the fat end) and drive these into the space between the edge of the wall and the lining. Use these as a way of adjusting the position of the lining to get a precise even width gap between it and the edge of the door for the whole hight of the door. Setting the gap to about the width of a 2p looks good. Since the lining is fixed in the centre there is enough give in it to allow this adjustment. Once right, you can cut the ends of the wedges off flush with the skim, and the ends of them plus any gap will be covered by the architrave. Otherwise it is very difficult to get the gaps round the door looking spot on.

[r.rain]

Thanks John appreciate it!

Richard

[The Natural Philosopher]

THAT IS VERY SOUND ADVICE.

Bloody caps lock. Sorry.