Stuck Euro Profile securing screw

[Michael Chare]

Something like these or can you suggest anything better?

[Andy Burns]

If you haven't got much use for the other punches, just use your least favourite small flatblade screwdriver ...

[T i m]

I'd say 'yes', assuming you haven't already got most of those but even if you only use a couple on this job, it'll be way cheaper than any locksmith. ;-)

So, depending on the room you have around the head of the screw and how deeply it may be countersunk I'd first use the smallest chisel bit across the top left of the screw (say 10 O'clock) and hammering down and left. Depending on how easy it is to hold the door you might even start downwards at 9 O'clock (so you are hitting down the door not across it. Then go over to 3 O'clock and do the same upwards.

If you can't get even the corner of the small chisel on the outer edge of the screw head without digging into the surrounding metalwork, you could try one of the flat punches on the 'edge' you may have just cut with the chisel or a pointed punch at a great enough angle to get it to grip into the screw, rather than slipping off.

Use as big a punch you can (stronger and more rigid) and keep good pressure / grip of the punch against the screw before you give it a tap (to try to stop it slipping).

Assuming you have a bench grinder you could always very gently (so it doesn't get too hot, or quench it regularly in water) grind an angle of about 30 degrees across the end of say the 3rd from right punch to give you a bit more of an 'edge' to bite into the steel.Regular taps in opposite directions should start things going.

If the frame isn't plastic you could try putting a heavy soldering iron on the end of the screw (till you see smoke) as that might release any locking agent used.

It's funny, with experience you learn to choose the right screwdriver for the screw head (although you can still get it wrong first time) and assuming it's not already been mullered by someone else, you can get a feel of what effort might be needed before you turn it, de-cam and do damage (as after that you have an even more difficult job of course).

My go-to crosshead screwdriver is a long Pozi No2 or (and often surprisingly), the x-head bit on my Leatherman PST II.

Good luck!

Cheers, T i m

[dennis]

The company I bought mine from doesn't have the key codes. The locks arrive in a sealed box and the code is on a card inside.

They only get the card if I need a new key as they won't cut a new one without the code.

I can go to a lock smith and get a key and then they won't know the address even if they know the code.

Not that it matters.

If someone is paranoid they get someone else to order for them.

[dennis]

I doubt if you can remove an euro cylinder with some of the screw still in place, it wouldn't fit through the hole to extract.

[Michael Chare]

Thanks for your advice, the punches were not quite as small as I had imagined, and not quite pointed enough, but the screw came out with just a few taps of the hammer. So thank your very much for your help. Just off to buy a new screw.