I am having difficulty removing the posidrive screw that holds a Euro Profile cylinder in place. The end of the screw is starting to become damaged.
Anyone had a similar experience?
What would be the best way of removing this screw?
I am having difficulty removing the posidrive screw that holds a Euro Profile cylinder in place. The end of the screw is starting to become damaged.
Anyone had a similar experience?
What would be the best way of removing this screw?
An impact driver is ideal for removing screws with minimal damage to the slot. But once the slot is damaged, drilling out may be the only route.
Give it a bit of shock. Put the screwdriver in the head of the screw. Hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer once or twice. Now see if the screw moves
NT
Not helpful in your case, but a comment on the DIY FAQ.
This doesn't explicitly mention mole-type wrenches which are IMHO one of the most effective tools for this at least on machine screws, although it does talk about pliers and wire cutters.
The thing about the mole is that you can really graunch it tight, forming a new positive key. And you are separating the "grip" and the "turn" function.
I'd guess most locks would have flush screws?
The screws securing euro locks are generally countersunk, which won't help.
Indeed that is the case. I was going to try a left had drill bit starting with a centre drill bit or maybe get some of these screw extractors:
Which is why I wrote
"Not helpful in your case"
this might work
remove escutcheons on either side with two adjustable spanners grip both ends of the cylinder and break it in half by working it up and down a 5mm hole drilled through the narrow part of the cylinder (where the screw fits ) will make breaking it easier
new cylinder about £20 in B&Q
In my case my son wanted a euro removed that had a broken key in it, I tried everything to loosen the screw to no avail so next stop was to break the lock. One hard hit with a hammer and the lock bent slightly but the screw then just gently screwed out, I didnt manage to salvage the lock though. Ebay may be cheaper for purchasing depending on the level of security you want.
If its a cross head screw are you using the correct screwdriver bit? There is more than one type of cross head.
One trick is to file the point off the screw driver tip so that you can get the bit in more and it grips the outer shoulder of the screw head cross.
A few years ago I replaced my locks and next doors - they're identcal sizes. Trouble is, the measurements seem to be unusual and not available from SF or any sheds. I had to buy them 'remotely' as it were and was rather nervous about the supplier knowing my address and the numbers on the keys - ebay was not consisdered! I found some good locks of the correct size and then did as much as I could to check the supplier. So far no-one has come in and tidied up out of sympathy :-( I'd have preferred a personal retail purchase so that I was anonymous - bit paranoid I suppose.
No, not really. I did the same as you a few months ago, replacing all the original eurolocks with antisnap ones.
I guess the company I bought them from over the internet wouldn't last 5 minutes if it became known there were break-ins associated with them (insurance companies share claims data). But they do have the key "code" data, of course, in case I need replacement or extra keys, and my address. Caveat emptor, I suppose.
done
NT
I've not had to do this on a Euro Lock but have done so on many (machine) screws over the years and that's use a very fine punch to tap the screw round.
This works best when whatever the screw is mounted in is rigid (like an engine block) so whilst your doors is probably 'soft' wood or uPVC, there may be a lock plate over it that could help act as a support.
So, if you still have any screwdriver slot left (whatever the head type), use a fine (1-2mm diameter) and possibly slightly angle tipped punch held at as low an angle you can get and at 90 Deg to the axis of the screw. If you can work a 'key' into the screw (by using the punch to 'cut' a slight slot) and as near to the outside edge as possible then you will get better torque.
Do this from as many different directions as possibly and at least two opposite sides.
I used this technique quite recently on a Stihl crankcase Torx socket screw that had been stripped out because of poor usage (they hadn't cleaned the socket out properly before inserting and using the tool). I was able to cut a slight slot across the top of the screw with a hacksaw (I have often used the Dremel with a cutting disk) and then used the punch to get the screw loose.
Cheers, T i m
I have been told that
works, but have not used it myself.
It's a paste that increases the grip between screwdriver and screw -- like a diamond-tipped bit (which you could also try, work a treat when new).
Thomas Prufer
Whoever "designed" that dotty background which doesn't line up properly with the animation wants a red-hot poker in their eyes.
An charitable interpretation is that they know lots about screws, and not such much about web design.
A look on ebay shows that "Liqui Moly 3811" is a similar product...
Thomas Prufer
If you carefully drill off only the heads of the screws, and remove the lock, there should be enough left of the screw to undo with pliers or a mole grip. Once the screw is no longer under tension, it should come out easily - unless corroded, etc.
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