No; a strange arrangement, the T&PRV clearly isn't something they'd expect to be replaced regularly.
You may have enough clearance to rotate the valve just by raising the cover; Sod's law says you won't.
Otherwise maybe try and heat, soften and bend it using a hair dryer or heat gun & then bend it back, but don't expect it to survive.
My one came out easily. It was a simple unscrew and reassemble job,
If you drain the pipes/cylinder top through a tap on a lower floor, you have to ensure you break the vacuum created by the syphon action or it can very easily collapse the cylinder. Opening the defective valve should do that.
I think I got a replacement from this lot, but I'm not certain, it's some years back;
You were absolutely right. I took a bit of convincing at first because it seemed that the valve only discharged when I heated the water with the boiler and not with the immersion heater. But it eventually started doing it when using the immersion heater as well.
Anyway, I've replaced the valve, and all seems to be well again. The temperature sensing bit of the old valve was pretty furred up - which was probably the cause of the problem. The equivalent bit in the new valve had a bit of up and down float (the valve is mounted vertically and screws into the top of the cylinder) but the old one was solid until I freed it up. My guess is that the furring was holding the body of the temperature sensor at the top end of its float - with the result that the pin which moves when it gets hot didn't have to move very far before it pushed the valve open - thus making the valve open at 40-odd degrees rather than 90-odd.
This must be a common mode of failure in hard water areas. It seems very unlikely that the valve manufacturers had never come across it!
Why are these T&P valves so expensive? The cheapest I could find a genuine Santon (part of Poxi-Batterton) valve was about £120. I managed to find a generic equivalent on Ebay for £64 - which was more than enough, and turned out not to be a direct swap. Nothing major - the operating spec is exactly the same - but the output connection is slightly shorter and the outlet compression fitting thread is different, so I had to extend the pipe which goes to the tundish, and re-make the compression joint. No big deal, but just slightly annoying.
Many thanks to all who have contributed to this thread - you know who you are!
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