What was the conclusion about the full-bore valve last year ?
I've been trying to squint at picture of the full bore gas ones. I wondered if those are bidirectional as they don't appear to have an arrow on, but the picture could be poor.
I also found:
Do those MDPE inline stop taps have arrows on ? Simon.
sm_jamieson (sm snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com) wibbled on Tuesday 08 March 2011
13:22:
I was wondering - I have some flow-restrictor full bore valves from BES that did not have an arrow. I took a guess.
Sorry, I can't remember - I thought that I'd kept that somewhere. They appear to be symmetrical re. seats, i.e. no circlip. One side has a hexagon socket inside which, together with the hexagon on the body, is the method of assembly, so I'd tend to make that the inlet - the other end has a little less of the seat showing inside the body. If there were a circlip I'd do as already suggested and have the force away from that (have I got this right?). As mine was for a loop between 2 radiators it wasn't a critical use re. pressure.
I've just got a full bore lever valve from B&Q with own brand "Plumb SURE". One end has a hexagon as you say - method of assembly. No arrow, nothing about direction on package. Looking in both ends it appears identical. No circlip. Just housing, nylon surround and the ball. I cannot see how it could possibly matter which direction its fitted. And of course being full bore, there is no force of water rammed into the ball / surround interface. Simon.
Ah now I've just looked at a normal service valve. It is a single casting, not assembled like the full bore valve. And obviously has been put together by pushing a circlip in. And the flow is marked as into the circlip end.
So I would suggest: The circlips ones are directional, the 2-part assembled ones (with a hexagon for assembly) are not. Anyone disagree ?
Simon.
Until it's turned off.
I've often wondered which way round to put isolating valves on the flow and return to part of a radiator circuit. Part of mine[*] is prior to the zone valves, and needs isolation in the summer when hot water only is needed. In this case having the one in the return with the arrow opposite the normal flow seems best, but the order of turning them off may matter. I've had one or two leaks ther with cheap valves. Currently one has been replaced by a gate valve.
Full bore ones are often of better construction standards. I may use them next if I get any more problems on these two radiators.
[*] Close to the boiler in the garage. The zone valves are in the airing cupboard, some distance away.
That seems reasonable. My only reason for having the hexagon (socket) end upstream is because there's a tiny bit less seat showing on the other end but I doubt if it matters. I do have 2 of these valves but the other one has fitting on it so I can't see if the slight difference is consistent or just normal manufacturing variation.
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