Steel shed ventilation

[john brook]

We have a sheet steel garden shed, and with any sun at all it gets unbearably hot inside.

We put up polystryene slabs under the roof, but that was to stop the condensation dripping down inside in the winter. It does not help with the problem of the shed getting too hot.

Grateful for any suggestions as to best how to keep it cooler in this warm weather, please.

Trying to cut out holes in that tin sheeting would I guess be a difficult task, and I've no idea if it would be of much help? Thanks for any advice.

[Martin Brown]

There is a limit to what you can do in a small space without any airflow. Paradoxically your best bet might be to glue aluminium foil onto the underside of the polystyrene slab. This slows down ingress of solar heat by making it harder for the polystyrene to radiate energy.

The other trick is to make the exterior partially or entirely self shading by having a second outer skin on battens. Ivy works pretty well as it includes its own airconditioning and looks better than sheet steel.

Letting the hottest air out the top and allowing cooler air in at ground level will help a bit. You want a vent that lets hot air out but doesn't allow rain to get in.

Regards, Martin Brown

[John Williamson]

Painting it white could be a good move, as could putting a secondary roof above the first with an air gap between them. Also, maybe a small solar powered fan in a window or door might help.

All of these work quite well on Land Rovers.

[Andy Dingley]

Solar panel & 12V computer fan. A bit of battery helps (and a diode in series with the solar panel), but you don't need smarts

[Janet]

If you're working in or around it, leave the door open. If you're not in the shed , does it matter how hot it is inside? Janet

[Martin Brown]

It doesn't do paints or garden pesticides much good to be excessively hot or in strong sunlight. Oxidation and loss of solvent can occur.

Regards, Martin Brown

[clare]

Ridge vents and screened opening in the base.

[Steve Walker]

That seems the best option - a second roof panel was the answer for desert-going landrovers, fixed an inch or so above the real one. With ridge vents to release the heated air from the cavity.

[Simon Cee]

Without shade it will be near impossible. As others have suggested, a seperate 'skin' on battens with plenty of gap and open top and bottom,. Or ivy. Or quick and easy.. camouflage netting - interesting and is fairly helpful. Double layer might be good?

And paint it white. Obv only needs these on the surfaces exposed to the sun.

Well shaded it should not get above ambient temp.

[Steve Firth]

True, it was the solution provided by Land Rover.

It didn't actually work, believe me.

[Andy Dingley]

It worked fine while you were driving, but not when stopped. As it was level, there was no height difference to drive a chimney effect.

So a mate in Angola converted his Landie fleet to have pitched roofs, with ridge vents. Reckoned it worked much better,

[Janet]

I would have thought a metal shed too cold in winter, to store paints there? and lacking strong sunlight :-)

Janet

[Steve Firth]

Not in my experience - no difference between a Landie with a tropical roof and one without, not in the Sahara at least.

[Paul - xxx]

Maybe this sort of thing, couple near the roof line, a couple near the floor .. ebay number 310329876456

Or a length of 130534194440 under the eaves etc

or a shed-load of drilled holes .. ;)

[Jim Elbrecht]

Can you build a little cupola in the roof and add an attic fan?

Jim

[Baron]

What about the obvious - a turbine / roof ventilator? The hot air is enough to keep them moving when the wind is calm. It should be possible to seal it off from inside the shack during the winter to trap any heat indoors.

Good Luck.