stair spindles with base rail on corner

[sm_jamieson]

I have fitted the spindles with base rail on the stairs up to a newel post, and now have to do the landing. At the top of the stairs after the newel p ost, I have a short section (only about 6 inches) then a 90 degree bend ont o the landing. For this bend I wish to use a curved hand rail section rathe r than a mitred corner, since it looks much better. The issue is that there is no matching curved base rail section available t o match the handrail, so the base rail has to be mitred. Since there will b e no spindle right in the corner, the sharp mitred corner of the base rail looks a bit silly.

The base rail has this profile:

R-41.gif

I could try and make a radiused corner piece but I am not an expect with a router (I don't have one) and not sure if the edge profile is a standard fl uted router bit. Any ideas to make this look half decent ?

Simon.

[Bob Minchin]

Ideal job for a Handibot recently mentioned in this NG

Otherwise it would be an ideal time to become acquainted with making radius jigs and getting a router if you think you will use it in the future. Or a local woodwork might make it for you given samples of the straight profile and the matching top rail from which to make radius measurements. Yes it will cost you but should be less than a decent router but you won't end up with the router, the skill or the satisfaction.

[sm_jamieson]

ost, and now have to do the landing. At the top of the stairs after the new el post, I have a short section (only about 6 inches) then a 90 degree bend onto the landing. For this bend I wish to use a curved hand rail section r ather than a mitred corner, since it looks much better.

le to match the handrail, so the base rail has to be mitred. Since there wi ll be no spindle right in the corner, the sharp mitred corner of the base r ail looks a bit silly.

h a router (I don't have one) and not sure if the edge profile is a standar d fluted router bit.

I actually already got a local place to make me a matching rail with a groo ve in the bottom as well as the top, so I could slot it over the stringer a nd have it as a removable panel. I paid 80 quid for a 3.5 metre length ! They did a very good job, and good knot-free timber, but as you say, not ch eap.

Simon.

[John Rumm]

The edge profile looks close to being a normal ogee profile, although many of the cutters will put a more pronounced step on the bottom edge where it meets the vertical. (you could obviously tweak that with an additional routing operation.

The other option to consider would be setup a mitre saw / table saw to cut slight wedged segments of the straight profile, and then glue them together to form your curve in much the same way a wood turner would make a blank for a segmented turning.

[sm_jamieson]

I had thought of doing that with the good ol' 22.5, but actually a few more segments might be worth a try. Cheers, Simon.

[sm_jamieson]

Well I've done it with a 15 degree angle (another nice stop on the saw) and it looks fine. Now on with the hand rail. Cheers, Simon.

[Jim K]

Er custom machined one off part in decent wood for 80?? "not cheap"? Shurely shome mishtake?!

Jim K

[sm_jamieson]

I never know how much you have to pay for such things. I think the workshop got "the lad" to do it, and I payed him anyway. I know when I got some picture rail made to match, there was a high set up cost for the spindle moulder, so I got plenty made just in case. In the garage for a few years, I'll be using it soon for the back room. Simon. Simon.