its dot-and-dab onto the brickwork - however there is a gap between the plasterboard and the brick that I can use (and have managed to route cat5 and coax in) if I negotiate my routing rods round the dot-and-dabs.
You don't mean a lead with a plug on each end do you? OMG!
Having said that, I've got exactly that for my generator, but it has a huge "DANGER" label on it, plus the precise instructions for connecting and disconnecting it.
Why not make it a fused spur? Mount a new single-gang box adjacent to one of the existing sockets with a 1.5 mm^2 T&E run up to the loft, from this virgin box. Connect across from the existing socket box in 2.5 mm^2 - this much shorter run should be easy to get through the knockouts. In the new box mount a fused connection unit with 13 A fuse, the type without a flex outlet and with/without switch and neon according to taste (the switch would be useful though as a 'main switch' for everything you put in the loft.
Then with a fused spur you can install as many 13 A sockets in the loft as you like (provided the envisaged load won't exceed 3 kVA).
That was the plan last night - but I tried it with 2.5mm^2 cable up into the loft space.
or can I use flex instead of the grey 'flat' wire ? ie
1.5mm flex will have a larger total cross sectional area than TW&E.
Get some strong 'nylon' cord - curtain track stuff is ideal. Pull this through with your CAT5. Strip back the TW&E about 9" and twist the red and black together - but in opposite directions, ie wrap the red round the black clockwise and the black round the red anti clockwise. Tie the cord to this loop then crunch the loop flat with pliers. Tape over the joint. Make sure the TW&E enters the hole without twisting - use an assistant. It should then pull through any space CAT5 managed to.
I think the main problem was with the wire having to 'snake' around various bits of dot and dab. The grey T&E wont do this at all - where as flex might. In any case, its worth a try... But is it 'safe' to use ?? Could I use 1mm^2 ?? (thanks for all the help on this - much appreciated!)
As others have said, try to get some sort of draw-cord or tape through first, then use that to pull through the 1.5 T&E.
Flex is non-preferred, but not actually forbidden. With a 13 A fuse the min. flex size is 1.25 mm^2. 1 mm^2 would limit you to a 10 A fuse.
I can get a draw cord through using the cat5 - but that will be able to snake around in order to get where it needs to be. The 'flat' T&E wont be able to snake as much - I'm finding it impossible to draw it back through. I think my only hope will be with 1mm^2 flex - I'm happy to put a 10A fuse into the FUC to compensate for the drop in cable size.... back to B&Q then.. again!
Or even brown and blue :-)
Old habits die hard!
Also get some round cable clips the right size for the flex, and a appropriate 20 mm cable gland to take the flex into the metalclad socket that you'll be using in the loft. Label said socket "Max. load 10 A".
A spray of PTFE/Silicone lubricant on the cable may help. Be sure the cable does not twist as this will increase the effective diameter of any hole it needs to pass through.
Well... I managed to get the bugger through ! I had been attaching the flex to the cat5 using tape, but then tried the tip of looping together the wires within the flex and the cat5. Took quite a decent yank to get it through, but its now there! As a result, I have spurred off a socket to a FCU that I've flush mounted adjacent to the socket. The flex then goes into the loft from there - all hidden behind the plaster. I had to use 1mm^2 flex - so have used a 10A fuse. This will feed the first double socket in the loft. My plan is to then wire up another 2 double sockets using 2.5mm^2 T&E so that, when I next decorate, I can replace the 1mm^2 piece with 2.5mm^2 and not have to change the rest of the cabling. Anyone see an issue with this ? Thanks for all the tips - I'm very happy ! Label on the B&Q pack says that I should be able to run 10A load and
server in the future.
No, sounds fine.
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