Hi, I am looking to soundproof a wall that backs on to my neighbours kids bedroom. I have read many articles on the subject and dont want to make a fuss.
I noted one article using wickes shouldshield board and soundcoat plus plaster, however it didn't explain the process - does anyone have any experience of this? are the boards dot and dabbed on the existing wall, then plastered with soundcoat?
The articles did state the boards are heavy, would these be safe to use upstairs?
bedroom. I have read many articles on the subject and dont want to make a fuss.
plaster, however it didn't explain the process - does anyone have any experience of this? are the boards dot and dabbed on the existing wall, then plastered with soundcoat?
Before assuming that adding soundproofing material will make any difference, I suggest reading this article.
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In particular, note the point about windows being the main culprit.
bedroom. I have read many articles on the subject and dont want to make a fuss.
plaster, however it didn't explain the process - does anyone have any experience of this? are the boards dot and dabbed on the existing wall, then plastered with soundcoat?
It is tricky to stop sound as the requirements for anchoring the board to the existing wall conflict with preventing vibrations in the wall being conducted to the new front surface. The most impressive stuff I have seen for stopping acoustic noise was a sort of composite heavy closed cell foam/rubber membrane/closed cell foam/self adhesive sheet intended for sound studios. Not ideal domestically though. Offcuts of similar material seem to be sold for quietening noisy PCs - stopping the metal case from drumming with the fans being half the battle there.
Apart from the problems of getting them up the stairs I'd have thought so. The house would have to be very flimsy construction if heavy duty drywall added to the party wall was capable of causing trouble.
Maybe someone knows of a magic board fastener & silicone spacer that simultaneously allows a firm rigid mount and acoustic decoupling.
If it were mine, I'd line the offending wall with insulation of some kind, polystyrene would be cheapest but celotex would be better if money is no object. just stick it to the wall with whatever's handy, gripfast, expanding foam etc. In front of this erect a 3X2 framework to take plasterboards, infil with rockwool cavity batts and board with soundproof plasterboards, skim and add a new skirting before decorating.
FoC to members of various libraries (e.g. Manchester, you can sign up on-line regardless of where you live, IIRC they give you the username there and then, but you have to wait for them to send out your password in the post, if so try DDMM from your DoB).
This is called the "online reference" section, not *all* BS docs are included, but you end up with a PDF download (printing and copying text prohibited, visibly watermarked with the date, time and library it was download from, I tend to assume somewhere it's invisibly marked with the user who downloaded it too).
bedroom. I have read many articles on the subject and dont want to make a fuss.
plaster, however it didn't explain the process - does anyone have any experience of this? are the boards dot and dabbed on the existing wall, then plastered with soundcoat?
If you stop having sex so noisily or move your bed slightly away from the wall, you won't need to worry about their kids hearing you quite so much in their bedroom... ;-)
bedroom. I have read many articles on the subject and dont want to make a fuss.
plaster, however it didn't explain the process - does anyone have any experience of this? are the boards dot and dabbed on the existing wall, then plastered with soundcoat?
you won't need to worry about their kids hearing you quite so much in their bedroom... ;-)
Heheheh. Actually, I'm interested in this opposite problem - how to stop noise getting out. In my case I'm thinking about cutting out noise from a basement workshop. The noise is, AFAICT mainly transmitted through the floor and walls. Hammer blows and light woodworking machinery mostly.
I've got access to some old PE mats: 6'x4'x1" and I was planning to line the floor and walls with these and sandwich them behind an inner floor and walls of blockboard to which the benches and equipment would be mounted.
I'm theorising that the rubber mats will deaden the sound within the workshop by damping the vibrations of the blockboard but that none of the vibrations will find their way past the rubber into the walls and floor. Airborne noise would have to pass through a solid stone wall with a doorway and two more rooms before it reached the neighbours.
Am I on the right track here? Is this plan a goer? Or a gonner?
Provided you isolate the inner skin from the walls thwn it should work, but you might want to check the flammability of these old PE foam mats outdoors and with a small strip being careful not to breathe fumes.
If it is very old PU foam it makes pretty good firelighters and if it is fire retardant then it doesn't. The former smoke only contains traces of cyanide whereas the latter can have phosphorus cage compounds better known as nerve agents! That is why if foam furniture is burning you get out as quickly as possible and leave it to the professionals.
Apart from the possible fire risk probably it should work. I really wouldn't consider using them if they are not fire retardant foam!
bedroom. I have read many articles on the subject and dont want to make a fuss.
I did this for exactly the same reason and it worked well. The party wall is a solid (Victorian) 9 inch wall.
I built a new stud wall not touching the existing wall (very important that) with the gap loosely filled with rockwool. It made a huge difference and was easy to do.
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