Some electrical questions

Right folks - as I've got a few days of drilling and chiselling to do before I actually get round to the electrics, thought I'd save some cash by ordering my electircal bits online...
So a number of questions arise - thought you guys probably know toolstation and screwfix gear better than me :)
Wylex circuit breakers - are these a 'standard' size that will fit all? I have vague recollections from the past of getting some Wylex MCBs to replace a 5 amp fuse and it wasn't the same fittiing? Not so easy when you can't pop back to local shop... Anyone know what the distance between the pins is on screwfix ones, and if they're two solid pins (I've seen some before with effectively 4 pins - more like 2 pairs)?
Recommendations for kit to make a short (8m total) ring circuit with 4 double sockets? Any particularly good / bad cable to watch out for - bearing in mind the bendier the better as I'm lousy at working with cable :) Same goes for wall sockets - any got particulatly good / bad to work with connectors on back?
Finally one not-very technical question - I'm right in assuming that if I want to get rid of a dimmer switch that is mounted separately from on/off, I can just complete the circuit for the switch then bury it in wall? Wrong-headed way to approach I know, but the ceiling rose is in a fiddly position so I don't want to touch....
TIA
Robert
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"Robert Irwin" <catfishpcAThotmailDOTcom> wrote in message

before
toolstation
very unlikely

replace
if it was a Wylex consumer unit the MCBs should have fitted if you had the correct 'colour coded' back plate.

methinks you are confused - the 4 pin ones are BS1361 cartrdige fuse holders - Wylex MCBs are strictly two pin
if you have a Wylex CU then, for instance, a 15A MCB fits into a 'blue' backplate and no other

bearing
I
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"Chris Oates" <none> wrote in message

on
Thought so - maybe was just sold wrong thing at the time.
Thanks
Robert
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all?
I thought you had to change the back plate along with the fuse when you upgrade to MCBs. There is also a lug on some of the backplates that you have to remove to get them to fit

I agree
-- Adam
adamwadsworth@(REMOVETHIS)blueyonder.co.uk
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"Robert Irwin" <catfishpcAThotmailDOTcom> wrote in message
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One thing I have noticed of late, is that Homebase white T&e seems to be hard to split, sheath wise.
Dave
And you were born knowing all about ms windows....??
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wrote:

At this time of year it does tend to be a little harder to split T&E because of the temperature. However I assume from your comment that this problem is related to product sourced only from Homebase?
PoP
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Good job I asked - will avoid them as have to buy cable tomorrow due to appearance today of new stud wall thanks to moment of ,um, strong will re: furniture placement by girlfriend :(
What does T and E stand for anyway - I assume that just means std 2.5 mm core stuff?
Robert
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On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 23:22:02 -0000, "Robert Irwin" <catfishpcAThotmailDOTcom> wrote:>

Twin and Earth cable. It's worth buying it from an electrical wholesaler because a) it's less expensive and b) they probably have a faster turnover than DIY stores (especially Homebase who tend to be expensive for electrical materials). It does seem that the more recently the stuff is ex-factory, the easier it is to split.
.andy
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On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 15:05:11 +0000, PoP wrote:

No I don't use white, I tend towards the grey, it was just I have done a lot of work for someone recently and they bought their own cable from Homebase and I happened to notice this. This was earlier in sept/oct so temp was quite warm. Trouble with white cable is the chemical bonds in the plastic can be attacked by ultra violet.
Dave
--
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wrote:

I haven't had to buy cable for quite some time, reason being that I've got reels of the stuff in the garage.
I've seen grey cable before now, but it doesn't seem to be on the shelves in the sheds. I guess I should use TLC Direct or similar!
PoP
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