Solid wood vs. engineered wood floors

[cskrimshire]

Hi All,

I know this topic has been fairly well covered in the past, but I'd be inte rested in an up-to-date round up of consensus from anyone who's been in thi s debate in recent times, as I am soon to be making a decision.

As far as I can tell there is little to choose between them from the point of view of look and wear. Two important factors seem to be (a) solid wood i s more likely to bow (but shouldn't be an issue if the quality is good) - e ngineered wood is more stable, (b) engineered wood seems to be typically a bit more expensive. I'm aware that thickness of veneer is important, and wo uld be going for at least 5mm. Also, engineered wood is preferable over UFH - though this is now irrelevant to my situation as I've decided against th is.

Are there any other things to be borne in mind?

Cheers.

Chris

[Dave Plowman (News)]

It you want boards at the wider end of the spectrum, you'll likely need to go for engineered.

Do shop around when buying. Including Ebay. But it is very difficult to compare like for like. Most of the high street suppliers - and the sheds - seem to be poor value.

Most of the Ebay suppliers want cash on delivery - or charge extra for credit cards.

[greyridersalso]

Only difference we've seen is my daughter has solid wood and we've engineer ed. Hers is silent while ours is like a Japanese "whispering" floor, most a reas of it creaks and crackles no matter how hard you (I) try to creep abou t in the wee hours - I'm told it's down to poor fitting......

[meow2222]

terested in an up-to-date round up of consensus from anyone who's been in t his debate in recent times, as I am soon to be making a decision.

t of view of look and wear. Two important factors seem to be (a) solid wood is more likely to bow (but shouldn't be an issue if the quality is good) - engineered wood is more stable, (b) engineered wood seems to be typically a bit more expensive. I'm aware that thickness of veneer is important, and would be going for at least 5mm. Also, engineered wood is preferable over U FH - though this is now irrelevant to my situation as I've decided against this.

Engineered is far more expensive, more stable, and less able to cope with w ear. I can't see the excessive prices being worthwhile.

NT

[cskrimshire]

terested in an up-to-date round up of consensus from anyone who's been in t his debate in recent times, as I am soon to be making a decision.

t of view of look and wear. Two important factors seem to be (a) solid wood is more likely to bow (but shouldn't be an issue if the quality is good) - engineered wood is more stable, (b) engineered wood seems to be typically a bit more expensive. I'm aware that thickness of veneer is important, and would be going for at least 5mm. Also, engineered wood is preferable over U FH - though this is now irrelevant to my situation as I've decided against this.

I could have added that we will probably want 150 mm width. Another questio n is 'what are peoples' experiences with fitting-only of self-purchased boa rds? My local flooring shop want £20/m2 for laying.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'd guess engineered would retain a degree of spring always given its construction. And, of course should be more warp resistant. Are both floors laid on the same sort of base and in the same way?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Decent quality engineered will have a 6mm layer on top - which allows a couple of sandings. If it is reasonably well protected by oil or varnish it should last a lifetime of normal use.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I laid my own - and secret nailed it to the original wood floor. Bought the proper nailing machine new and flogged it afterwards on Ebay at a profit. ;-) I also went a bit mad and removed/replaced the skirting so it looks like a real floor rather than covering. And saved myself over 600 quid by your price. Rather enjoyed doing it too. But I do have all the nice tools for this - like a decent chop saw.

[Rick Hughes]

Engineered wood .... glued t&g laid floating over a 3mm closed cell underlay is a great floor.

Stable, and as long as you get at least 5mm veneer .. takes as many sandings as solid wood. I used 7mm veneer BOEN Oak, and 5mm KHARS .... now been down 10 yrs ... great products.

I did not use bevelled edge ... as wanted flat finish.

TIP- measure and make sure no thin pieces would end up at end or at doors ... trim down first strip if necessary to achieve this. Getting the first 3 strips laid absolutely perfect, wedge to get a string line perfect (no bowing across room) let glue set, then next day do rest of room in one go. Ratchet clamps a necessity (have set for sale if interested)

[meow2222]

I know for some stuff one soaking and its knackered.

NT

[yendor]

Talcum Powder sprinkled between the joints should stop the creaking.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

If you've laid them properly, there won't be any gaps to get talcum powder in.

[greyridersalso]

No gaps (smug) Sorry, no idea which underlay the daughter has, it was done "by a man" - her words, not mine.

[cskrimshire]

terested in an up-to-date round up of consensus from anyone who's been in t his debate in recent times, as I am soon to be making a decision.

t of view of look and wear. Two important factors seem to be (a) solid wood is more likely to bow (but shouldn't be an issue if the quality is good) - engineered wood is more stable, (b) engineered wood seems to be typically a bit more expensive. I'm aware that thickness of veneer is important, and would be going for at least 5mm. Also, engineered wood is preferable over U FH - though this is now irrelevant to my situation as I've decided against this.

Thanks for the comments.

I note that nobody was clearly in favour of solid wood. I suppose neither s olid wood or engineered wood are going to fare very well in flood condition s (but then most floors won't), but possibly solid wood may be slightly mor e resistant? Not that this is a great criterion.

I'm probably going to bottle out of laying it myself, as it's not my house. Any experience of laying prices?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

It would surely depend on the quality and contruction used in the ply for engineered? And that does vary.

Actually laying it is a quick process. What takes more time is cutting where it meets a wall, etc. So a large plain shaped room should cost less per sq mtr than a small irregular one.

[meow2222]

solid wood or engineered wood are going to fare very well in flood conditi ons (but then most floors won't), but possibly solid wood may be slightly m ore resistant? Not that this is a great criterion.

Maybe you missed some of the posts. Solid survives water.

NT

[Mike Barnes]

[e-mail]:

Floods come in all sizes. Our solid oak floor survived a rather minor flood (washing-machine-full of water from the floor above for a few hours) with ease.