I notice that with most real solid wood flooring, according to the sales websites it is nailed down, how do you lay it on a concrete floor?
What board width would you recommend for a 23ft x 12 ft area.
I notice that with most real solid wood flooring, according to the sales websites it is nailed down, how do you lay it on a concrete floor?
What board width would you recommend for a 23ft x 12 ft area.
There are several options:
This is largely down to personal preference, around 5-6" would be my choice.
Can most engineered woods be laid as a floating floor over a membrane?
Basically yes, but the feel and longevity of the floor will be affected by the thickness and the board-board bonding.
However, it makes a very big step at the doorways.
Methods 2 and 3 seem to imply keeping off the exposed adhesive, and working only off the boards already laid, or at best needing to be incredibly careful when moving about. Having just finished laying a floor on concrete by method 4, it's very hard to imagine how I'd have done that.
Seemed about right here too.
Have you any experience of this self adhesive underlay that is supposed to bond a floating board together, removing the need for adhesive. Mind you at =A36 a square meter its not cheap.
Only in that I've seen it demonstrated in a showroom. It does seem to work, but I'm not sure I'd want to use it until it's been around a decade or two.
Fine for engineered wood floors, but with planks, any cupping can cause real problems.
NT
They can, and often are, but its not the same 'feel' as properly glued or nailed down.
And the phrase 'solid oak wood flooring' does not evoke and 'engineered wood floor' to me either.
I assume he has t & g planks of pure machined oak..this is highly dimensionally unstable and will move all over the place if not well tied down.
Good grief. I actually believe you have said something sensible!.
This gives room for insulation too. It makes a big difference.
Its looking like engineered wood is my best option, who makes the best quality?
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