Soldering versus crimping in resin filled joints

[RJS]

What does the panel think about using soldering rather than crimp connector s when assembling resin filled joints for SWA cable?

Judging by the threads on the IET forum, soldering is an acceptible method of connection - even the preferred method when more than two conductors are to be joined.

Strangely enough, the instructions in the third joint kit that I have shows screw connector blocks used to make the electrical connections - albeit wi th four Allen screws per circuit and supplies crimps in a variety of sizes rather than the screw terminal block. The final step in the instructions f or this joint is to energise the circuit if carrying less than 1000V as soo n as the resin is poured into the joint case. Why? The other two joints I have used don't include this step.

TIA

Richard

[Tim Watts]

Switching up a notch to HV and LV high current joints in the road:

The current way involves non soldered joints and resin, but the old way (like 30+ years back) was soldering[1] and fill with a pitch derived type compound (perhaps more like pitchblend - melts but hard and brittle when cold).

[1] by ladling hot solder over the joint, while live! (LV only, HV was off and earthed).

Can't answer the last bit...

[Andrew Mawson]

Well if you do decide to solder, don't use 'lead free' or you'll be doing it again in a few years when it cracks :(

Andrew

[harryagain]

Judging by the threads on the IET forum, soldering is an acceptible method of connection - even the preferred method when more than two conductors are to be joined.

Strangely enough, the instructions in the third joint kit that I have shows screw connector blocks used to make the electrical connections - albeit with four Allen screws per circuit and supplies crimps in a variety of sizes rather than the screw terminal block. The final step in the instructions for this joint is to energise the circuit if carrying less than 1000V as soon as the resin is poured into the joint case. Why? The other two joints I have used don't include this step.

The advantages of crimping is it's quick. (The crimping tool is exensive and once bought, you have to stay with the same make of crimps.) The advantage of soldering is it's less likely to go wrong in the long term. (And one set of tools covers all sizes and is useful for other things too.)

Can't think what advantage there would be in turning on power immediately.

[RJS]

Indeed 'lead free' solder seems to consist, largely, of devil's sputum.

Richard

[RJS]

Soldering would be my preferred method of jointing but just because I like it doesn't mean it's acceptible!

I'll exhume my 50W Weller and 'proper' solder.

Thanks

Richard

[John Rumm]

Its certainly acceptable, although less commonly deployed in the field since its not always easy to do in situ.

For permanent non accessible joins the regs permit soldering, crimping, and welding. There are also commercial off the shelf "maintenance free" connections designed for the purpose.

Is this a "required" step - i.e. "now you must", or just a "now its ok to"?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

For SWA?

[RJS]

I'm inclined to think that soldering in inaccessible locations is easier than crimping - and vice versa. But that's only based on making two of these joints - the first on a bench, the second in a hole in the ground!

I did ask my supplier for something to use in place of the crimps but they couldn't help.

No, the 'apply power' step wasn't couched in optional terms and, because of the 'less than 1000V' bit, suggests to me that it is mandatory.

Cheers

Richard

[RJS]

Forgive me Dave: why not? Yes it is SWA (6.0 x 3) Richard

[Tim Watts]

6mm2? Sounds about right...

[RJS]

Er, sounds about right for what, Tim?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Not man enough for the job, I'd say.

[Tim Watts]

50W iron.

[harryagain]

A blow lamp is neccessary for power cables.

[RJS]

As I am discovering :-(

2 x irons and a lot of burnt fingers :-)

[RJS]

If I could prevent the 'collateral' damage to the insulation I'd use my Rothenberger torch.

R

[Andrew Mawson]

Wet rags wrapped around the insulation was the way we used to do it when the flame got too close. You can buy a magic jelly made for the purpose, but an old flannel face cloth is about perfect :)

Andrew

[John Rumm]

Now you know what I mean about "not always easy to do in situ" ;-)