Soldering connector to electric hob cable?

[Michael Chare]

For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor connection. It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very easy to buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have the correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best I can.

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.? (Not so easy to undo, but I can live with that.)

[Bob Minchin]

It is vital to do a proper crimp even if you borrow the tool. Solder will be useless at those temperatures.

[tabbypurr]

Solder to a wire connected to a red hot hotplate? Seriously?

NT

[John Rumm]

For high current applications at high temperature, you need to make sure the crimps are good enough to be gas tight.

Yup, the solder will remelt when the element is on!

[Michael Chare]

These are the crimp connectors that I have ordered:

They are very similar to the original NEFF ones. Does anyone know of a suitable crimp tool costing no more that £12.50

Screwfix have a product, but the shape of the connector means that you would have to use a size near the end of the tool.

[Brian Gaff]

It surely depends on the temperature of the solder melt point and the temperature at the solder joint which is expected. I'd have also expected special cable types here if its very very hot. Brian

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Crimp tools tend to be priced according to the volume of their production. If not many are sold, a decent one won't be cheap. And you really do need the correct tool for the job in this case, as a badly made crimp is useless. And those flag type crimps are one of the most difficult to find a decent tool for.

That size terminal (1/4" spade) is common on older cars too. The tool I have for that which produces a perfect crimp cost 70 quid. But still doesn't do flag types properly.

[Mike Tomlinson]

En el artículo , Michael Chare escribió:

Soldering won't work at those temperatures and bodging it is iffy at the currents involved. You're just going to replicate the original problem, which was a poor connection.

Suggestion: take the insert out of a choc-bloc connector (i.e. remove the plastic surround - take out the screws and poke the metal connector out), and use that. Crimp a ferrule onto the wire end.

If you're able to find a choc-bloc insert large enough to accommodate both the element end and the wire end overlapped, I would do that to maximise the contact surface area.

[jones_michael_groups]

I would be concerned that repeated thermal expansion/contraction cycles would make this solution unreliable.

Could one of the techniques being discussed in the Makita NiCad/NiMh thread be adapted to spot weld the connection?

Mike

[Capitol]

Is the failure on solid or stranded wire? I'm not having trouble on stranded up to yellow size crimps?

[newshound]

+1 for this and all the other comments on soldering. However, silver soldering might be another option, as long as you have the "feel". I assume this is silicone insulated wiring?

[Huge]

BTW you can get ceramic choc-block for this. I used one to fix the failed crimp on the immersion heater in my last house.

[tabbypurr]

it might well do - but it might work if done up real tight. A better bet than crimping with pliers anyway.

NT

[Michael Chare]

It needs to me something that will connect to the male terminal on the ring

[newshound]

Silicone insulated wire. Readily available by the metre from eBay, used for battery powered RC cars

E.g.

[harry]

Can't be done. Too hot. Alternative is brazing/silver soldering. Neither can you use copper push on terminals,they go soft and relax again due to the heat.