I've been attempting to solder a small fitting from my toilet seat which is broken in half. The item has the appearance of brass all the way through but the solder will not take. I have thoroughly cleaned the item by wire brushing and acetone. I am using insulated jaws on my vice and heating the parts with a blowtorch before using resin cored solder. However, no matter what the temperature, I cannot tin the surface of the metal. Any ideas?
Terry D.
A lot of brass is actually brass plated steel. Is it magnetic?
It sounds like you are using electrical solder. I think you'll need plumbers flux as the brass will have likely oxidised by the time you get the solder to melt on it. Soldering doesn't have much strength (except sheer stress on a large contact area, where is behaves as a composite). Chances are the brass broke where the area is smallest, so even if you did get it soldered back together, it would be nowhere near as strong as it was before it broke.
Many years ago, when Adam was a lad, I was taught that brass could not be soldered but was brazed, a higher heat being required.
In article , Broadback writes
I've soldered many brass plumbing fittings and they've all wetted at the same time as the copper so I doubt it.
Brass sheet solders as easily as copper. Terminals etc are usually made of brass as it's stronger than copper. Cast 'brass' may have something in it which makes soldering more difficult
- I dunno.
The 'brass' item I was attempting to solder is slightly magnetic, unlike my brass door knocker, so it probably has some iron content. Surely however iron can be soldered. I intend to try to silver solder the part eventually, when I obtain some silver solder and a decent blowtorch. I've had experience of soft & silver soldering for many years, but this has me baffled - maybe it is a flux problem. Silver soldering would certainly be a stronger option, using a borax flux.
Terry D.
=================================== If it's quite old it might be something called 'Delta brass'. Apparently this was (maybe still so) a special alloy made for the Delta tap (i.e bathroom taps etc.) company and contained a high proportion of aluminium. I tried to get some brazed by a specialist firm and they couldn't get anything to stick. Maybe it's a trade secret.
Cic.
Found after a Google search. Nickel aluminium bronze ref. CDA 955. This contains 11% aluminium, 81% copper, 4% iron & 4% nickel. My unsolderable fitting could be something similar. The aluminium content explains why I cannot solder it and the iron content explains the slight magnetism. However, the data sheet states that the suitability for soldering is good. Maybe it's a question of flux. Unfortunately, I still don't have a downstairs toilet seat! - even superglue doesn't work. See:
================================== I wonder if the particular solder has anything to do with it? Lead solder and lead-free solder may behave differently with your alloy.
Cic.
In message , Terry D writes
Then try aluminium solder
Dare I say it - why not replace the fittings?
I originally called out my plumber because of a leaking toilet seal and I didn't feel too enthusiastic about doing the job myself. The toilet bowl has also wobbled for years and I have been unable to tighten the screws. Anyway, the plumber attempted to remove the screws and in front of my eyes cracked the pan, then stated that I now needed a new toilet. The new toilet was fitted the same day and is a good quality Twyford. Unfortunately this was last Tuesday and he still hasn't returned to fit the seat. Fortunately I have another toilet in the bathroom. I thought I would replace the original seat (which is nice warm wood), but due to seized screws, I broke the fitting. I have already priced new fittings on the internet.
Do you think I have any claim against the plumber for breaking the pan or should I try claiming on my house insurance for the new toilet? I think I'm due for a claim, having only made one claim in my entire life. It's time I got some of my premiums back from these greedy insurance companies. The evidence is still in my back garden.
I heard that my local police station had their toilet stolen recently. The plods are investigating the crime but still have nothing to go on. Boom Boom.
Terry D.
Use plumbers flux.
Brass most definitely CAN be soldered.
Whether its a good idea depends on the applications.
No try aluminium FLUX.
google Carrs for suppliers.
I have soldered aluminium succesfully with standard solder, but never with standard *flux*.
Tell that to all the modelmakers building etched brass kits.
MBQ
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