sockets mounted in base units

[sm_jamieson]

OK, sockets mounted in kitchen base units is an accepted technique it seems. Which of the following is workable / the best:

1. Actually mounted on the wall behind with a cut-out in the back panel (may have to mount socket on a plinth to make it span the service void behind, looks a bit of a bodge).
2. Mount a surface box inside the cupboard (sticks out into cupboard, back panel could be flimsy).
3. Mount a plasterboard-style hollow wall box into the back panel of the base unit (back panel could be flimsy) Simon.

[Tabby]

Those all work fine. Flimsiness can be countered reasonably well by mounting it near the edge of the back, if you go that route.

NT

[Tim Watts]

This is the corect way.

No and no. My interpretation is that such cupboards do not count as "building fabric" for the purposes of mounting fixed electrical accessories or wiring on.

Although some may argue the other way as striplights are often mounted on wall units and hard wired in - though at least the link-light version of those is unpluggable.

Cheers

Tim

[Bob Eager]

I just used a very deep surface box to bring the socket forward.

[stuart noble]

My cooker socket is on the side panel of the carcass. The sparks who fitted it seemed to think it was ok

[ARWadsworth]

That's not what B&Q say

I mount the sockets on the side wall of the cupboard right at the back (unless otherwise instructed by a customer)

[sm_jamieson]

Who is that notice addressed to ? I guess its the accessibility rules, to avoid the sockets being buried behind pans etc. I'd agree with mounting them near the top though, for that same reason. Simon.

[fred]

I wonder if, historically, it was because only the sides that were guaranteed to be solid in a B&Q cab ;-)

[Tim Watts]

I knew it would be a debateable point :)

I'd rather fix to the lower cupboards than the uppers as the lowers are usually more permanantly/solidly fixed - though my personal preference is sockets on the wall with a cutout in any back panel. Then again my machines are not integrated types so I won't have a back panel in most places where sockets are needed.

Cheers

Tim

[ARWadsworth]

I have seen it where the first time someone trys to use the socket the back of the cupboard falls off!

[ARWadsworth]

>>> Although I mount the sockets on the side wall of the cupboard right

And you are allowed to buy

There really ought to be a clear guidance of the use of sockets in cupboards by the IET.

[sm_jamieson]

Its quite common to fix the sockets in the next cabinet in that case, and have the cable and plug going through a hole. I'll try to avoid stuff (plumbing / electrics) behind e.g. washing machines, since they need to be pushed back quiet far. I've seen many washing machines sticking out quite a bit for presumably this reason. Simon.

[Bolted]

Presumably at least part of the reason for side mounting is because their kitchens have very flimsy backs rather than 18mm (and it's quicker and easier than messing about with non-surface mount stuff on plinths etc).

I do mine the metal backbox on plinth on wall way, based on the 'must be attached to building fabric' rule oft-quoted on here.

[tim....]

There may be some high quality ones that are different, but I would have thought that not having a solid back board was pretty normal

tim

[tim....]

>>>>> Although I mount the sockets on the side wall of the cupboard right

You're allowed to buy all sorts of things that you're not allowed to use :-(

tim

[ARWadsworth]

Did you not spot fred's smiley?

[Robin]

Someone tried to get such guidance a while back but the IET declined to give it. See

have been wasting the odd few minutes looking for further guidance on this issue about kitchen fixtures since it was raised a few days ago. The best I've found is (as in that link) that it is "good practice" to fix to the fabric of the building but that fixing to kitchen worktops, carcases etc is not against the regs. Which I think is what you've said.

[sm_jamieson]

I would have been inclinded to use the surface mount boxes on a plinth (white plastic ones), but I guess why not use a metal back box, since it will not be visible. Simon.

[Bolted]

Surface mount boxes are bigger so the socket plates do not overhang. So, if used recessed, show the raggedy edges on the hole.

So stopping a metal backbox a mm or so short of the face of the back is neater for a flush socketplate.

That was my rationale anyway.

[Andrew Gabriel]

There's a recommendation (I think from NICEIC) not to do it, but it's not against the wiring regs. I guess it depends if you think your wiring will last longer than your kitchen. In practice, most kitchens are rewired when the kitchen units are changed, so the units can be considered as permanent as the wiring.

For IKEA cupboards with backs flush to the wall, you just fit a standard flush wall socket and cutout the rear panel. I usually do it as a close fit to the back box, and refit the socket flush inside the cupboard, so the rear cutout is invisible behind the socket plate.

I have one behind every floor standing cupboard, in case it't ever replaced by some appliance. In most cases, I feed the appliance plug into the adjacent cupboard's socket, so it can be accessed without having to move the appliance.

For sockets under the sink, they are in surface mount waterproof enclosures so that a spill or leak into the cupboard is not electrically unsafe.