Smart tips for fenceposts....

[polygonum]

I notice that site offers an "Invisible Dog Fence".

Useful to know if you need to control invisible dogs.

[Andy Champ]

It's also 40 squid a sheet, not 15 like the plain one.

Andy

[polygonum]

That is true. :-(

[Tim Lamb]

In message , polygonum writes

Nicely finished.

Is there not a risk that tall plants will grow through the horizontal gaps?

I can see that you get less wind resistance but without the clear view of trellis.

>

[polygonum]

Thanks. :-)

The other side is almost clear grass. (There was something there but it was how glis glis got into next-door's house - so it disappeared pronto!) Therefore, basically, no. And even in other locations it is no worse than any other fence panel.

Where there was a gap to the right in that photo, there is now full-height diamond trellis continuing with its top inline what that panel.

[Phil L]

The major pitfall is putting the posts in first without the panels - the posts never stay upright, that is, they may be 6ft apart at the bottom, but

6ft 3 at the top, which, apart from that panel flapping in the breeze, the next one to it won't go in because the gap is 5ft 9.

I see from other replies that you have pondered concrete slotted posts with wooden panels, these would be my first choice, and you can still put the posts midway to the old ones to avoid the concrete lumps, use a string line and spirit level and dig out the holes first, then put the first post and panel in, level it up, tie the stringline up and put the next post in, then concrete these two (wedging with old bricks, broken flags etc to stop it wobbling) and continue.

If you are using a gravel board at the bottom to prevent wood rot, what I normally do is concrete / brick / whatever up at each end near the post so that the panels can't sink into the ground at a later date, like this:

[Tim Watts]

On Saturday 02 March 2013 16:02 Phil L wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Good tip - thanks :) I would not have considered that...