Slate Wall Tiles

[Willi]

I want to put up a wainscoting of slate tile about 3 feet high on one wall in my TV room.Because of the "look", I'd like to install the tiles with the edges butting up to each other instead of having a grout line between.

Can this be done or is the grout necessary for strength or?

Any drawbacks with doing this?

Willi [e-mail]

[The Natural Philosopher]

You can, but if its riven slate the edges never quite lie flush with each other.

Which is why we use 5mm gaps and grout...

You can get dark colored grout though - BAL do lots of interesting colors.

[andrewpreece]

I used ceramic tile adhesive and grout from Wickes for my slate tiles ( grey, so a good match ). Whilst I haven't butted them, for the reasons the previous poster gives, even if I did I would be inclined to put some grout in the remaining gap(s), otherwise you'll inevitably get gaps even if you butt them together: slates are simply not machined accurately enough to butt together with invisible joins. On the same note, they vary in thickness too. You will have to find the thickest slate in the batch, start with that one and then bring all the other slates up to that level by using appropriate amounts of adhesive. Slates also are no necessarily flat, nor constant in thickness either, so if you're aiming for a nearly-dead flat look you have to be very careful.

Andy.

[Willi]

I like the difference in thickness which will result in an uneven look. I want the finished project to look somewhat like a "more finished" field wall. Similar to this:

made up with narrower oblong tiles.

I plan on cutting the 12X12 tiles into thirds and staggering the joints as I work up the wall. From your guys' suggestions, I'll probably get some grout that closely matches the main color of the tiles and use it to fill in any gaps (although when laying them out I see little or no gaps).

Another question I forgot to ask:

should I use a mortar adhesive like what is used on floor applications or a different product?

Willi [e-mail]

[Jonathan Pearson]

If you are in the Southern England, I'd suggest going to Stonell to get some ideas , they are the specialists and the slates are not much more than what its costs from your local wickes / B&Q - this is especially important if you plan to DIY it as you need specialist products (lindofin?) to seal the tiles even before you stick them down - other wise the grout will stain the tiles, also you need to remove excess grout immediately after applied otherwise you'll spend weeks trying removing it.

Jon

[The Natural Philosopher]

That is doable, if that is what you want.

I think you will have better results with a GOOD wall tile adhesive. I have used both, and to be honest the evostik range of waterproof adheisves are better for walls than the floor grade cements

The issue is walking. On floors, any gaps under the tiles will eventually lead to loose tiles, and you may also need a bit of flex. On walls the stresses are far far lower, and you really want to go for a fast grab and possibly slightly rubbery adhesive - especially over studowork.

Slicing slates with a diamond cutter is fairly easy: watch out for the last smidegon chipping out. I made a lot of skirting tiles for the slated are of the house that way. And some thin strips of dado line decoration in a tiled bathroom. Looks OK.

e

[The Natural Philosopher]

I got excellent slate around 25 a square meter from Smith and Wareham's in Bury St Edmunds - Montauk. I think they have a web site.