Skirting boards in bay window area

Finally managed to get most of the skirting boards done in the master bedroom -- have been using the scribing/coping saw method for the inner right-angle corners and 45-degree mitres for outers.

However, the bay window area is this kind of shape:

___________ / \ / \ | | ______| |_______

All of the inner angles are /approximately/ 135 degrees.

I've tried scribing a couple of them, but it looks pants -- seems much more tricky than doing a right-angle corner. Any tips?

Cheers,

Styx

Reply to
Styx
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Buy a mitre block.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Not much use for angles of "approximately 135 degrees", surely?

David

Reply to
Lobster

And they are approximate (house about 110 years old, nothing is straight).

I do have access to a compound sliding mitre saw, but haven't even tried to mitre them as even right-angle inner mitres don't seem to look anywhere near as good as scribed joints.

As a last resort could try mitres and then fill any gaps, but I'd rather not if there's a better way.

Styx

Reply to
Styx

Maybe your mitre saw has a 67.5 setting. Two of those will give a perfect joint

Reply to
Stuart Noble

I had a similar problem. The way I did it was thus: Get an A4 piece of paper and offer it up to the angle. Fold the paper so it fits in the angle of the wall perfectly. I then folded the paper again in half and this gave me the exact angle of which to cut one bit of skirting so it was exactly half the angle.

I offered this paper up to my mitre saw and just adjusted it till the paper was flush with both the blade and the rest. That method is basically just a paper alternative of

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couldn't believe how accurate it actually was especially since I wasn't using any measuring equipment.

Also have you googled something like cutting skirting angle. I'm sure I got my tip from there.

Steven.

Reply to
Steven Campbell

Not hard to make the skirting 'only approximately' align with the guide is it? Just pack it out one end or t'other.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Been talking about this at

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Reply to
normanwisdom

You don't need to know what the angles are, measuring them is irrelevant. You just have to reproduce them. Try one of these

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can use this to set your mitre saw exactly.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Get two pieces of 2x2 wood each 12" long,get a stiff hinge if you can find one? screw the hinge onto the wood at any two ends,at the hinge ends mark both pieces of wood A&B. A will represent the bay window wall flat B will represent the two side of the bay window. Use this as a template to find the angle and transfer it to the sliding mitre saw by positioning it on the base of the saw and butt up to the guide rail,then adjust/align the blade to the wood.

Reply to
George

Try one of these:

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Roger.

Reply to
Roger Wareham

As already suggested, a sheet of paper would easier, but chopsaws usually have a mark for 67.5/22.5

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Not if the angles are /actually/ 142, 132, 138, and 128 they won't! Cowboy builder is not (only) a modern profession you know.

Reply to
Martin Bonner

It's usually only plaster that throws the angles out. I find it easier to cut the angles as they should be and backfill where necessary. Particularly with skirting, trying to follow the wall isn't a good idea. Make the wall conform to the skirting rather than the other way round.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Thanks for all of the replies. It seems the general opinion is to mitre it, and some very good pointers (and tools) as to how to achieve good results (I especially like the piece of paper trick as that's FREE!)

Was quite tempted by the "Magic Mitre" until I saw the technique for tall skirtings (the ones in the bedroom are 7") as that looks like a bit of a faff to me. Could be very good next time I come to do some picture rails, though.

Cheers,

Styx

Reply to
Styx

Something like this might be useful if it had 67.5

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Concur: This product really is magic ! I'd ad to Roger's suggestion, buy it from QVC as their package includes a 'free' ( = at no extra cost) saw.

Reply to
Brian Sharrock

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