Sikkens vs. Ronseal exterior on a hot ledge

I've got iroko timber around my south facing aluminium windows that I've just sandpapered off the old mahogany coloured varnish. It's a hot ledge when the sun is glaring at it (as it is today).

This varnish previously had been a mix of Ronseal exterior painted on top of older Sikkens Cetol HLS / Filter, and was cracking quite badly so it had to go. I've still got tinned remains of both Ronseal & Sikkens (last used 2003) in the tool shed.

So... which do I use?

Ronseal: Lasts 5 years (it sez on the tin), Dry and recoatable in 6 hours, in the future lightly rub down and recoat with same is minimal fuss. It's not expensive.

Sikkens: Lasts ?, needs 16 hours wait between coats, needs one coat of HLS and two of filter, in the future I'd only be happy stripping off to bare wood to do it again. Costs a bit more. Lots.

Of course, I have a question mark above. How long does Sikkens normally last in the glare of the unforgiving sun? In terms of wood protection, it its use justified over Ronseal?

Reply to
Adrian C
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Stand down. I've decided to go with Sikkens. :-)

Reply to
Adrian C

My personal experience - windows previously had been coated with some unknown stain by the house builder so decided to completely strip the sashes and frames down to bare wood and start afresh with *the best*. Applied single coat of Cetol HLS plus, allowed a days drying and then applied 2 coats of Cetol Filter 7 over the course of the next 2 days, lightly rubbing down with fine wire wool between coats. Result - after 3 years south facing window sills started flaking off, followed by lower sash horizontals.

After 5 years windows were so flaky that I decided to again restrip the rear of the house (the south facing side) and (on a friends recommendation) tried Ronseal 5 year stain - 3 coats applied over 2 days with a light rub down between 2nd and final coat. - result - after 7 years all surfaces are still sound, although have given them a single coat top up as the surface is sound but going dull. The Ronseal is much easier to use, fast drying (you could do 3 coats in a day if pushed) and you can rinse out the brushes in water.

- I will carry on using Ronseal in the future!

Reply to
Phil Jessop

Hmmm... I now have a dent in my keyboard where my head just hit it.

Reply to
Adrian C

I have used Sadolin extra which, while fine for sawn finish wood, is very short lived on sealed pine windows: particularly the horizontals/sills.

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

My hardwood windows are treated with Sikkens. Recoated them for the first time last summer. I simply washed them down whilst give them a light rub with a pan scourer (the nylon and sponge type) to remove any dirt and loose material, and once dry added a single coat of Filter 7. Supremely easy to paint on the new coat coat, it's so light and flows so well, and still has that fresh-coat beauty a year later.

Reply to
RubberBiker

I assume you rub down with methylated spirit to remove the oil layer, otherwise coatings will flake.

Reply to
js.b1

Tried it in Italy on a west facing window. Two years later it was peeling off. I've since tried proper (two pack polyurethane) varnish and that has lasted for five years so far. The other finish that has done well is Brewer's own brand exterior gloss, used on an east facing door. It does incredibly well in the sun, so well that Italian neighbours have started to ask if I can take extra tins with me next time so they can use the same paint.

Reply to
Steve Firth

Adrian C wrote in news:7i41gqF2vko0nU1 @mid.individual.net:

Sikkens

minimal

normally

protection,

I have tried using Sikkens HLS followed by Filter. The problem is that after a few years when it cracks you have to rub down; in some places to the HLS coat in other to bare wood. So what do you then? Spot touch up the bare wood with HLS followed by Filter 7 all over or just chance it with an all over coat of Filter 7? Its not practical, so better to use a single layer treatment. My personal experience is that Sikkens is superb on rough sawn timber but mediocre on planned timber - especially poor on horizontal surfaces such as cills. DAvy

Reply to
Davy

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