Very hot! I have found the 45w pull switch in the bathroom gets very hot while the shower is in use Installed about a year ago, proper cable from RDC to switch then on to shower shower was new then too. Should it really get this hot? Oh, and this week it won't turn off anymore but if I change the switch (expensive little buggers aint they) will this happen again? whats the cause? TIA
The shower draws a very high current, the highest of any of your domestic appliances. All the connections need to be of the highest quality. Any connection which isn't will generate heat. The heat itself leads to deterioration of the connection making it rapidly worse, generating even more heat. The bad connection could be one of the cable connections, or it could be the switch contact. One can often cause the other by conducting heat. Eventually you can get a fire.
A shower switch is one switch where you really must buy a good quality one. It will have better contacts, and better cable connections than the cheap end of the range. If the cable has got hot (which it probably has), it may need replacing too. If you're lucky, there will be enough slack to cut the damaged ends off and pull more through. You really want to avoid joining this cable if possible, as that just introduces further points where it might overheat. Make sure the copper conductors are bright and shiney before you insert them into the terminals, and do the screws up tight. It would be a good idea to check the state of all the other connections on that circuit too, including retightening the screws, and to recheck the tightness of the new connections after a month or so.
thanks Andrew - there is a join in the garage (choc block) as I bought too short a langth of cable, I will go buy a better switch and new cable this morning and do the job properly thanks again
A choc block is only satisfactory in a suitable flame proof enclosure. Best to use a junction box designed for the job - they're not expensive.
However that won't cause the switch to overheat. Most likely cause is loose switch terminals. Like all such things they should be tight - it's pretty difficult to break them. So use a standard screwdriver with a blade the same width as the screw - so called electricians types often aren't suitable.
If you're not at the shops already then 10mm2 would be more future proof:
6mm2 in free air or trunking is ok up to 8.5 kW but you can lose 5% of the power in the cabling on a long run. If you have a run through insulation then it should be 10 (or move it out of the insulation).
10mm2 is needed for 9kW or above and will lose less power to the cable.
I was wrong, I have 10mm and the Shower is 10.5kW I have opted for a switch to be situated outside the bathroom that way the cable will run straight up from the garage to the airing cupboard which is next to the bathroom and where the back wall of the shower is so becomes simple. proposing then
10.5kW shower
10mm cable
45w switch
40 trip switch on RCD'd CU
Ok, 10mm2 is fine unless it's passing through insulation, move it (cable or ins) if it is. Real world load (the uk is really 240V, not yet 230V) is just shy of 44A so switch is fine but breaker is a bit light. At 10% overload it won't burst into flames and probably will never trip but an upgrade to 45A might be something to add to the to-do list.
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