Should I replace my entire washing machine drum?

If you buy a new machine, bear in mind that it's life expectancy will only be 5 years and it will not rinse or wash nearly as well as your existing one. Her new machine has to have all clothes double rinsed to meet her standards! Even Which says that the current machines are crap.

Reply to
Capitol
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Well if its otherwise OK and the outer drum is not too expensive, then OK but do make sure the springs and other devices to stop it hitting the sides are working properly, as normally hitting this outer piece is what causes them to faille in the end. Unbalanced drums on modern machines are seen by the electronics and the spin slowed till they get light enough to not be so unbalanced, but if this is not working it might just crack the new part. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

"Brian Gaff" wrote in news:nnfu6s$4vd$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

It has paid for itself. Time for it to go.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

An oft repeated claim. Is there any evidence for this? Never had a machine last less than 10 years personally. I'm sure quality brands will last more than 5 years.

No accounting for some folk...

Pretty much matches their reviews then.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Someone's been watching Cashgone ads. I mean Calgon.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Which's opinions are worthless IME.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

I would suggest that a new machine for three times the price would be a better buy. You don't know when the next part will fail.

Reply to
Michael Chare

I can see why you'd say that, but no :) I don't mean the obvious like heater elements or simple blockages. Over the years I've noticed that heavy scaling seems to make some types of plastic and some synthetic rubber seals/hoses very brittle.

Reply to
Lee

When we cut though what could have been a rubber sealed joint between the two drum halves (welded to save the cost of the seal and 8 screws) and went to re-join them we found that even the saw cut removed sufficient material that the *length* of the steel drum was now too much for the inside of the plastic tub assembly.

So we spaced the halves apart with some thick stainless washers, replaced whatever the seal might have been with some neoprene round section strip and backed it up with the aforementioned 'super silicone'. Bolted it all up and it never leaked or moved, even when the bearings finally failed 7-8 years later.

Nothing to do with your scenario, just to say that you can often fix these things even when the odds are against you. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Need to consider the risk and effects of a flood caused by a failure.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

It can be a never ending issues.

I had a cracked spider casting on the back of a Hotpoint drum .... bought new one ... many hours of fun replacing it. The door seal went, then the dampers, then pump, motor brushes, then programmer .... at that point scrapped it. You can start down a never ending path of patches ........ once they are past 15 years point, in my book not worth the effort.

Reply to
rick

Well, you can call me mad, but I'm trying it. It took a *long* time yesterday to dismantle the machine carefully.

I've just put the drum back in the new body, which arrived this morning from Partmaster.co.uk with new bearings etc....

Bleargh.....

I've found two mysterious pieces of metal which came in the box with the new outer drum and bearings (plus a seal for the drain bit).

These two pieces of metal are nothing I saw when taking the machine apart. I wonder what they are, and whether they are the two bits of mangled metal I found that somehow ended up between the drum and the outer drum, causing the damage. I need to see if I can find a complete assembly diagram online.

One of the pieces looks a *bit* like a piece of metal attached to the heater element, but not quite. Strange.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Kilpatrick

If you insist. You're mad. ;-)

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Oi! Just because I invite you to....

Hmmm, this piece of metal, the "deflector" came with the drum and I don't know where it goes:

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The other piece is a spare element bracket which isn't the same as the one on the old element:

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So I'm non the wiser if the too bits of mangled metal (scrunched up and unrecognisable) that caused the damage were part of the machine or were introduced via the dispenser tray somehow!

Michael

Reply to
Michael Kilpatrick

Agreed. Missed the dryer part (it's only described as a WM in the header).

Reply to
newshound

Wouldn't that apply to any such appliance in any case?

Don't these things flood and burn down homes without us ever touching them?

As with any such things I (I can't answer for anyone else) rigorously monitor any such repair work straight after doing it and never leave the thing unattended until it proves itself to be as reliable as any machine ever can be. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

It might be a heat deflector to stop the element melting the tub.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Yes, I discovered that...after deciding to put the drum together first and then eventually noticing, on the old drum, the faint marks where the two posts for two screws used to be but had ripped off. Pure luck that I noticed them as there isn't anything obvious about the positioning of this seemingly trivial piece of metal.

The bits of plastic and the two screws were in the filter basket in the drain, along with a few other shards of plastic from the damaged outer drum body.

So, I took the inner drum out of the new body again and fitted the deflector, working out now where it went.

I've damaged the hub seal so I need to wait for a new one.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Kilpatrick

/Is the washing pile growing?

Reply to
DerbyBorn

Most people wash at 45C or cooler. No scale drops out at these temperatures. I occasionally do 60C washes in a hard water area, and that doesn't result in any build-up either.

Some descalers make some plastics go brittle.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

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