Shed base - concrete/flagstones?

[Andy Jeffries]

Hi all,

Early next year (I know it's early but I'm doing my research early) I'm planning on putting up a largeish shed (8' x 12') as a woodworking shop (only tends to be used for a weekend every few weeks).

I've read that you can use flagstones as a base? AIUI these are basically large patio slabs and would be easier than mixing up a gazillion mixes of concrete (I've never made a concrete base before but I gather it's not that difficult).

Any recommendations? Should I go with the concrete base for any particular reason? Would flagstones (or something similar) be easier?

It's part of a bigger project (converting brick shed to office and study to utility room) so even the difference in functionality is minimal I'd rather go with the easier/quicker option.

Cheers,

[manatbandq]

You don't neccessarily need a continuous base. I built small brick pillars and used stout timbers to support the base of the shed. Think of floor joists reting on sleeper walls. I also put down a membrane to prevent weeds growing underneath.

MBQ

[Chris Bacon]

That's certainly the approach I'd take puting up a shed. The membrane isn't really needed IME.

[Andy Jeffries]

OK, so (to both of you) why would build brick pillars as opposed to using, say, breeze blocks?

What would you build the brick pillars on (a concrete base)?

Cheers,

[Chris Bacon]

They don't have to be anything special, Wickes class B eng. will do well - 6" off the ground is enough, unless you want to store timber, etc. under there. It's just easy to do - concrete blocks would be OK, too. A shed in the garden, might be 6x12', is on

8 brick pillars, each four bricks high, not mortared together, with the 4x2 bearer resting on an offcut of felt DPC. It's been fine for 30 years or so.

Depends on the ground. Maybe cut out a foundation and slop a bucket or so of concrete in, and build up on that - it's very easy to get a level "base" like this, and far less work than a "flagstone" or concrete base (which can also trap water). O think the flat bases are used for flimsy bought sheds.

[manatbandq]

I already had the bricks;-)

Small base for each pillar. Just dig a hole and throw some concrete in but get them all level.

MBQ

[Christian McArdle]

That's exactly what I did for my similar sized shed, except that mine really are patio slabs from B&Q, not BS flags, which sound like a pain to lay single handed.

It was essential to get it very flat for the type of construction of shed that I ordered. This was easiest done by laying the shed floor down (it came ready boarded in 2 sections) and packing out flags until it didn't rock. I had to send the assembly guys back whilst I did this and assemble it myself instead, which was a very simple job.

The final result is absolutely fine. The shed is now insulated, plasterboarded and painted, as it stores paint and needs to be frost protected. Hopefully the freezer in there should mean that the (electric) heating is very rarely required to bump it above freezing for the sake of the paint and tools.

Christian.

[chris French]

I did similar thing with my last shed.

I laid half concrete blocks down (bedded on a dry sand cement mix). A bit of DPC on top of each one. Laid timber 'joists' across them - in this case pressure treated fence posts and then shed on top of that

[Dave Liquorice]

The almost complete abscence of light from the shed will prevent any weeds growing so a waste of time and money putting down a membrane. No weeds under our shed when I rebuilt it earlier in the year.

The base is nothing as elaborate as posted in this thread. Just 5 4x4 treated fence posts laid directly on the ground and the shed floor joists rested across them. The rebuild was due to rot but not from the ground up but water on the outside or accumulating inside having been driven through the shiplap cladding.