Shave/plane glass?

[Steve Firth]

Oh look, here's a data sheet from the major UK supplier of toughened, laminated glass something you say doesn't exist. Apology on its way yet, Dingleberry?

[Cicero]

want to cut the glass so that it fits inside the opening?

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If the window sill has been painted several times (several paint layers) then you could easily have more than a millimetre thickness of paint. Stripping the paint from the sill (and possibly the top of the frame) might give you the required clearance without any need to grind the glass or plane down the sill. You might also gain some extra clearance on the sill using a wood scraper or just coarse sand paper. Paint stripper is available from any decorating shop - Nitromors is widely used.

Cic.

[Steve Firth]

And again:

for the hard of thinking "tempered" is a synonym for "toughened":

"Toughened glass (also known as tempered glass) is a type of safety glass that has increased strength and will usually shatter in small, square pieces when broken."

sort of "glass laminator" have you been talking to Dingleberry? An imaginary one?

[rpgs rock dvds]

then you could easily have more than a millimetre thickness of paint. Stri= pping the paint from the sill (and possibly the top of the frame) might giv= e you the required clearance without any need to grind the glass or plane d= own the sill. You might also gain some extra clearance on the sill using a = wood scraper or just coarse sand paper. Paint stripper is available from an= y decorating shop - Nitromors is widely used.

I like this idea! :) Also, an update (which I wrote before reading your post) -

I rang the glass shop, and explained that I wanted 2mm removed from the height of the 3 sheets of glass - to reduce the height dimension of each sheet from 848mm to 846mm. Originally, I said 1mm in my previous posts, but I now want an extra 1mm more, just to make sure the glass will fit OK. Unfortunately, the glass shop explained to me that it's a non trivial task, because the glass is so thick, at

10.8mm. Also, they can't do anything until later on this week. I was not given a price, because they weren't sure how much it would cost. I asked them if they could cut the minimum amount off the height of the glass sheets, and they said that the smallest cut they could do was about 50mm. That's probably too much.

So, I may have to go back to Plan B, and that is to alter the window sill in some way - to reduce the height of it by 1mm or 2mm, so I can get the glass sheets to fit OK. However, shaving off large sections of the window sill wood will probably be a maintenance problem when I come to vacate the flat - to make it look like the sill hasn't been altered in any way. I've got to think of a better way of reducing the height of the window sill, which is then much easier to patch up when I leave the flat. How about some kind of very sharp and small width "wood chisel", which can cut/shave a thin width "trench" (eg 11mm just enough for the 10.8mm thickness of the glass to sit in), in to the surface of the window sill? Afterwards, I can just fill in that "trench" with wood putty or something, and then paint over it.

Would a "wood chisel" and a "wood scraper" be the same kind of tool? BTW, there doesn't look like there's lots of paint on the window sill wood.

[Cicero]

you could easily have more than a millimetre thickness of paint. Stripping the paint from the sill (and possibly the top of the frame) might give you the required clearance without any need to grind the glass or plane down the sill. You might also gain some extra clearance on the sill using a wood scraper or just coarse sand paper. Paint stripper is available from any decorating shop - Nitromors is widely used.

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I think it would be preferable to concentrate on increasing the window aperture rather than trying to get the glass reduced; you could end up with a large pile of broken glass.

A chisel is not the same as a scraper; a scraper is a thin flexible flat sheet of metal about 1-2mm thick and would not cut the kind of groove you're considering. On the other hand a chisel can be used (with some difficulty) as a scraper and could be used to cut a groove used conventionally.

If you want to try using a chisel (say about 1/2") mark the position of the groove and score the edges deeply with a Stanley knife. Then work from the centre with your (very sharp) chisel towards the sides of the window reveal. Use the chisel almost flat with the surface. When you've created a groove clean it up by scraping the chisel (held vertically) along the bottom of the groove.

If you've got a router (or can borrow one) most of the groove might be possible using that - finish with a chisel as described above.

Cic.

[rpgs rock dvds]

(snip)

the groove and score the edges deeply with a Stanley knife. Then work from = the centre with your (very sharp) chisel towards the sides of the window re= veal. Use the chisel almost flat with the surface. When you've created a gr= oove clean it up by scraping the chisel (held vertically) along the bottom = of the groove.

Thanks! I'm going to get a chisel from a local hardware store and do this.

[dennis]

Being laminated does not exclude being toughened. For example car windscreens are toughened and laminated.

[dennis]

They use such laminates in shopping centres like Merry Hill and in escalators and balconies (well the ones that are done properly). You can go and look at the toughening marks and the plastic interlayer if you want to actually see some.

BTW why can't you have a toughened glass laminate?

[dennis]

DTGTTS. Grinding mirrors is easy, correcting them is harder.

[Cicero]

groove and score the edges deeply with a Stanley knife. Then work from the centre with your (very sharp) chisel towards the sides of the window reveal. Use the chisel almost flat with the surface. When you've created a groove clean it up by scraping the chisel (held vertically) along the bottom of the groove.

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Get an oil stone and a tin of 3-in-1 oil too - chisels are safest and most effective when they're sharp.

Happy chiselling!

Cic.

[dennis]

You will almost certainly find its cheaper to have ~>30 mm cut off top and side and make a frame to put it in (assuming its not toughened). It will also be easier to fix when its framed. For sound deadening you want at least 100 mm gap between the panes BTW.

[rpgs rock dvds]

Luckily, there's approximately that width gap between the existing double glazing, and where I intend to prop up these sheets of "temporary secondary glazing" glass.

[Alan Braggins]

[Dave]

Man next door has a job replacing JCB and other plant glass and he tells me that the shortest crop you can do with laminated glass is 10 mm and it involves using heat on the double scribe line.

I would go for the way another poster wrote and chop it by 50 mm and make a frame.

Dave

[george [dicegeorge]]

I shaved a wooden window sill down a bit for a plate of glass today, I used my Bosch PMF, to cut and sand. Sharp chisels for the corners.

Good excuse to buy a w> rpgs rock dvds wrote: