Sharpening wood turning tools on a budgie?

[T i m]

Ah,

Sorry, on a budget! ;-)

Hi all.

So, first a big thanks to all those who offered advice re my recent 'small wood turning lathe' question.

Special thanks to Brian of this list who kindly sold me his lathe last Sat, complete with a spattering of tools, extras, blanks and advice.

I believe the lathe is quite suitable for *us* (16 year old Daughter and I) because it was the right price , quickly breaks down into cupboard sized lumps, has a 1/2hp induction motor, 5 speeds and is a current model so parts are easily (and cheaply) available (I've ordered the bowl turning rest (8 quid) and may consider the 4 jaw chuck).

It doesn't have the rigid cast bed or 1" spindle but for our predicted usage, beggars can't be choosers.

Anyroadup, when we got it home we set it up crudely (but safely), found a 3" sq x 10" lump of a redish wood, set it between the centres and after a short (basic) demonstration from me Jenny had turned her first skittle! ;-)

This was just a familiarisation exercise so we could get the feel of the lathe and she could get a feel of the idea of turning in general. It was also a practice exercise pre her turning the foam 'vase' for her GCSE design project (both the idea of the foam and the glue to stick the blocks together taken from this list).

So, (and to the point) what would be the minimum kit that I would need to be able to get a 'useable' edge on this selection of "Record Power, HSS" chisels, skews and gouges please? (I'm not sure I want to spend even 80 quid on the 'right thing').

I currently have a small bench grinder with 'coarse' and 'fine' wheels but they have never been dressed / balanced etc. I also have a couple of mini grinders?

All the best and thanks again ..

T i m

p.s. Should we stick with std 'safety goggles / glasses' or are those full wrap round face flip up shields better against flying timber etc?

[Andy Hall]

If they are the ones that came with it, probably too vicious. It's worth investing in some better quality aluminium oxide ones which should run cooler than the (generally not good quality) originals.

Generally grinders seem to be equipped with 36 and 80 grit wheels, the former for reprofiling tools if you need to do that.

Have a look on the web sites of Turners Retreat (connected with Robert Sorby) who specialise in turning stuff, and Axminster.

You might want to look at a couple of books/DVDs which show various sharpening and basic turning techniques. Those by Richard Raffan are quite reasonable and there are a couple where there is a book and accompanying DVD which is quite helpful.

Eye protection is the bare minimum and a absolute must. There are certainly instances where large chips or even complete pieces can come flying from the lathe so personally I never use mine without either a wrap around face shield or if I'm doing sanding as well, respirator/shield.

The basic shields are quite inexpensive and light in weight. If anything they are more comfortable than safety glasses for long periods of use.

[meow2222]

I thought you were going to use the beak...

Would sandpaper discs on the lathe, scary sharp method for the purpose of, work?

NT

[TheOldFellow]

Being allergic to house birds, I liked the Subject better...

Google for 'scary sharp'. It's a system that uses emery paper glued to a glass plate for flat edges. I guess you could make a wooden 'slip stone' in the same way. Very fine grit emery is usually sold in Halfords for car paint work (1200-2000 grit!).

R.

[nightjar]

A good whetstone, preferably with a choice of grits, although this 'minimum kit' does need a bit of practice to use well.

Colin Bignell

[Dave Fawthrop]

|!T i m wrote: |!> Ah, |!> |!> Sorry, on a budget! ;-) |! |!Being allergic to house birds, I liked the Subject better... |! |!> So, (and to the point) what would be the minimum kit that I would need |!> to be able to get a 'useable' edge on this selection of "Record Power, |!> HSS" chisels, skews and gouges please? (I'm not sure I want to spend |!> even 80 quid on the 'right thing'). |! |!Google for 'scary sharp'. It's a system that uses emery paper glued to |!a glass plate for flat edges. I guess you could make a wooden 'slip |!stone' in the same way. Very fine grit emery is usually sold in |!Halfords for car paint work (1200-2000 grit!).

I stop sharpening when I can cut a piece of printer paper held in one hand with the blade. 400 grade emery/Lidl diamond, and finished off with a steel do me fine.

[T i m]

Ok, I'll look out for some. Do all these 'basic' bench grinders run at the same speed and do I have a choice of wheel sizes (if so what size should I go for)?

Well, I was given the grinder I have years ago so I don't mind keeping that (maybe with some new wheels) for more basic jobs (de-burring rods / cut bolts etc).

Some interesting stuff there eh? ;-)

Ok, ta.

We have watched quite a bit of stuff on Youtube, including turning some pretty big bowls!

jig ..

some pretty fancy elbow work!

>>

Ok, seems like a safe plan thanks.

Ok, well Jenny and I are happy with the Autoshield mask when MIG welding so the wood turning ones should be a breeze (nods to all the welders on the list) ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

[T i m]

Or borrow it's cuttlefish ;-)

I should think so, as per Andy's Turners Retreat .. (scroll down) and might be the cheapest way out for the moment (I could easily set it up in the Myford ML10)

also shows the wheel dressing tools .. not got any of them either .. it all adds up doesn't it ... ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

[T i m]

LOL

Ok, thanks ..

I do actually have some oil stones (in wooden boxes) that I have uses for sharpening firmer / bevel chisels?

That is fine .. how will I know what side to use? ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

[T i m]

Can you use that sorta technique on turning tools Dave (as opposed to carving knives etc)?

All the best ..

T i m

[T i m]

This sort of thing?

although this 'minimum

That it is ;-)

Like anything I suppose. So, with these sort of tools (where you are sharpening the end rather than down the length like a kebab knife) do you use the stone on the tool or the tool on the stone?

All the best ..

T i m

[nightjar]

ancient double-sided stone, about 9" x 2" x 1" thick, to shaped stones, usually about 1/4" x 3".

It is a matter of preference, but it is probably easier to use the tool on a large stone. Using a small stone on the tool means that you have two things that can move relative to each other. For flat chisels, you can get a honing guide and that does need a large, flat stone.

Colin Bignell

[meow2222]

It certainly does, if you buy pro kit for everything. I've found with hobbies there are often much cheaper alternatives that will also get the job done. And where budget is limited, ie in most places on the planet, a wide variety of homemade kit can do a huge amount more than the same money spent on a small range of Approved Accessories

Buying in to the retailers dream is optional.

NT

[T i m]

Oh indeed, like this lathe. Not exactly what was suggested or what I would like (if on my Xmas list etc) but probably more than adequate for the immediate job (in fact our Daughter successfully prepared (squared up the glued foam block then lopped the corners off) then turned the foam and now has a very pleasing vase / urn shape (she says she now prefers turning wood as the foam is too delicate) ;-)

She now has to work out how to remove the 3 'arches' of material from the base to leave the 3 pointed 'feet' pre filling / smoothing / painting etc. I might suggest a suitable burr in the Dremel, tested on some foam off cuts first of course (she has done some good work with an engraving tool and the grindette) ;-)

True, but nice sometimes.

All the best ..

T i m

[Andy Dingley]

You could try a really big cuttlefish bone?

You have two tasks here, one is shaping them and the other is sharpening them.

For shaping them, hold the gouge in th evice and use an angle grinder with a 40 or 80 grit flap wheel (not a disk). Aldi had grinders for under a tenner last week and they're a useful tool all round.

Get a decent "fingernail" grind onto your spindle gouges, for starters.

You can also use this for power sanding punky wood in the lathe.

For final sharpening, I can't think of anything better than the twentyish quid machines with the large geared wet wheel. That's cheaper than a decent fine stone for a full-speed machine! You don't need a woodcarving edge here, but you do need quick refinishing on HSS.

Scary Sharp won't do HSS in finite time.

I'd always recommend a full mask, and maybe goggles for visitors. Get a decent mask that doesn't droop downwards, otherwise you find yourself breathing into it and fogging it. I often wear a respirator on a cold day, just to keep my breath off the faceshield. It's not a bad idea when sanding too.

[T i m]

Ok, will do

Ok, not used one of them before (flap wheel not angle grinder). Apart from the grit size do you get different materials (easily) and if so what should I go for please? (these are zirconium?)

link to MM as I might be going there today if the 4 jaw chuck and bowl rest come in).

Yep, my B&D Pro mini grinder is probably 30 years old and has helped my build at least 3 road trailers and the 8' sq garage doors[1] to name but two. I also bought a cheapy recently to keep a stiff wire brush in it and at those sort of prices hardly worth mucking about changing stuff over (so may well get another for my flapwheel).

Do all these small grinders have the same size hub holes these days .. ie have they agreed a common standard yet (and what is it please)?

That sounds like experiment #7 Andy ;-)

Where would I find such a machine please Andy (do you have a link to one to give me an idea what I'm looking for). Would this do (if not what you meant, it's 40 quid though?)

>Scary Sharp won't do HSS in finite time.

Ok, but probably the cheapest option if I'm not in a rush. ;-)

Hmm, that or an extraction system ... nooo, the cost ... ! ;-)

All the best and thanks again ..

T i m

[1] I replaced an 8' square up_n_over door with a heavy steel frame, three top 'lights' (two fixed, one opening) and std hinged (steel) doors, (one personal and a bi-fold allowing me to open the entire front up, should I ever get it clear enough to get a car in)!

[robgraham]

I don't know the statistics but apparantly nasal cancer is not uncommon amongst wood turners from breathing in the dust of some of the exotic woods that contain carcinogens - a friend lost his father this way. I don't know what woods are the hazardous ones but it sounds as if wearing a filter of some sort is a good idea.

Rob

[T i m]

Oh ;-(

I knew that MDF (cutting fumes / dust?) was an issue but not 'tree wood' so thanks for the heads_up.

Will we start to see stickers on wood turning lathes "Use in a well ventilated space" ?

All the best ..

T i m

[Ian White]

Nothing so sensible. Notices will need to be attached to all trees.

[NoSpam]

I was once told that wood-turning tools worked better with a burr, so whetstones (like the Tormek) were not ideal for sharpening them. This may be reasonable advice for scraping but I'm not so sure about normal (shearing) turning. Any views?

Dave