Sharpening dovetail saw

I have a nice Spear and Jackson dovetail saw. 20tpi. I have set and sharpened saws in the distant past but never anything with that fine a pitch. Is it possible to get setting tools and files suitable for this tpi? Not to mention the electron microscope so that I can see what I'm doing! Thanks, Roy
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

http://www.fine-tools.com/euroscha.htm
stock very fine tiles though the hand set will only go down to 16tpi. Are you sure it needs resetting? I have not found a saw set that will go down below 16tpi. Dieter Schmidt is very helpful and friendly and writes good english so I suggest you ask him if he knows of one. When I ordered from him delivery was very quick.
Peter
--
Peter Ashby
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

No there is not a lot but I guess to work properly it needs to be right. I don't think it needs setting at the moment but I was interested to see what other might think. Many thanks, Roy
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My understanding from a book on cutting dovetails (damned if I can remember the name, and its at home) was not to worry about set but if the saw pulls to one side then run a slipstone a couple of times along the side of the teeth on that side to correct it.
Peter
--
Peter Ashby
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Roy,
Ah, mmm... Up to now most of my saw sharpening has been on old saws from the car boot sale, so its pretty easy to see where you've been! I should think engineers blue would be fine; I'll probably just try permanent marker pen when I need it. I suppose a traditional technique would be to blacken them with smoke from a candle or something. But let's not go mad ;~)
Cheers, Alf
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hmm - candle smoke sounds very olde/worlde craftsmanship sort of method... Obviously the way to go.... :-) Thanks, Roy
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

PCB etch resist pen. It's as convenient as the marker pen, but more or less the same stuff as marking blue and less easily rubbed off.
For really good saw sharpening files, try Lee Valley. They do the Japanese feather edge ones.
When sharpening a dovetail saw, set is crucial. Lots of set make a saw that's easy to steer, but unstable. Narrow set means you need to be perfect on initial alignment, then the saw follows its own line. Some people keep two of them, with different degrees of set, for either carcase work or fine boxmaking.
And rip teeth too.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes, my next tool purchase is likely to be a rip cut 10-12" tenon saw, followed by a rip cut dovetail saw. I have good combi cut versions of both but can see the advantages of having rip cut versions as well.
Peter
--
Peter Ashby
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes - I agree - however I would like to do it myself. I think there are only a couple of companies (L-N being one) selling rip tennons etc and they seem a bit expensive for a saw.
Roy
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

having just done a web survey I can comment on this one the toolshop does a rip cut tenon saw and Flinn & Garlick do their saws in any cut according to their website http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk /
Both are considerably less than an independence, nice though that would certainly be.
Peter
--
Peter Ashby
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Many thanks for your help.... I had missed the Flinn ones. Do you have a url for the toolshop that you mention? Thanks, Roy
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Ahhh.... Tool Post I have that in my favs - I did not understand Tool Shop.... Many thanks, Roy
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I use an ancient CK one, with a very simple action like a pair of pliers. It has a much narrower jaw than the Eclipse pattern with the rotating stop and the sliding plunger action. You can also take a file to one side of the jaw and make it even narrower.
For a rip saw it's also easy to stone the sides of the teeth after setting, to get the set even all the way along the blade.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.