Set fence posts in concrete or use Metposts?

Any thoughts on the best way of putting up 4" * 4" fence posts (in a sheltered city garden).

  1. Treat posts with creocote and bed in concrete, (approx 18" in concrete?).
  2. Use metposts, those square metal containers with a spike at one end.
  3. Other?

Also, is it better to use fence posts with slots in the side which the fence panel slots into OR just ordinary posts and keep the fence panel in place with galvanised nails?

Reply to
DIY Novice
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Best of both worlds, metaposts in (or on) concrete.

You can get clips about 2" wide, view from above:

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Reply to
Nige

They'll still rot at the ground to air transistion. Even if you ensure that the top of the concrete slopes away from the post.

These are reasonable but are a begger to drive in straight(*). How many bits of ground do you know that don't have stones and/or builders rubble for 18" or so down.

I'd go for the latter. If it should get windy the former will tend to come down as a whole the latter will just blow a panel out, in theory.

(*) Read: Virtually impossible.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Metposts are not suitable for fences above 3' high IMO and probably not even then. How high is your fence to be? What sort of panel do you want?

Concrete posts last and last. It has been known for for panels to blow out of slotted posts. If the panel is not a good fit it may be necessary to pack the panel with something to stop it rattling in a breeze. Concrete posts, when new, look a bit stark, and need painting with a bit of muck to encourage naturalisation.

Timber posts are lighter and a bit cheaper. Soaking the bottom in creosote (substitute) overnight (or as long as possible) will help preserve them. You should slightly more than the depth that is to be buried. IMO timber posts look nicer.

Whichever post you use make sure the hole you make for it is not too big. A graft is a useful tool (like a spade but with a very long thin blade), but you can make do with a ladies' or border spade (as narrow as possible). As you dig deeper, you may have to chop the soil at the bottom of the hole and clear out by hand, sticking your arm down the hole! Depending on the ground, you may not need concrete - in any case, the concrete does not need to be very strong!

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

I used metposts (actually the make was Fensock back then) and someone else used concreted-in posts we both put in ~15 years ago. The metposts are just as solid as they ever were, the concreted-in posts started snapping off at around 10-12 years old. I suspect one important thing is that I hammered in the metposts only as far as I could so the base of the post was just clear of the damp ground. Also, I used the type of metpost with a clamp done up by a nut and bolt, not the type which just grip the post by having some metal fins in the post socket.

I was building an aris rail fence. Pre-constructed panels won't last that long, so pick some way which makes them easy to replace. Another issue is a failing panel can become air-borne in a gale which is when they normally fail, and do lots of damage if it lands on your car or a neighbours. I can't offer suggestions one way or the other, but you might want to bare these points in mind.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Hi,

Another one is to concrete some pipe into the ground, put the post in and pack it with pea shingle.

If you concrete or bury wooden posts directly into the ground they need to be treated all the way through, where the post has soaked in preserver for as long as possible having been dried out all the way through.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

Actually use 1 and 2. Use a "concrete in" metpost embedded in concrete. This way you get the stability and longetivity of concrete and can easily replace the rotten post in 10-15 years time without having to dig out the concrete.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Slotted concrete posts, once they are in you can forget about them. :-)

Mark S.

Reply to
Mark S.

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