Separate switches for cooker and hob

A colleague is having a new kitchen fitted and was telling me that the electrician had fitted a separate switch for each of the cooker and the hob. Is this a new requirement in the 17th series regs or a function of fitting an induction hob?

Andrew

Reply to
Andrew May
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I assume the hob is separate to the oven, rather than an all-in--one appliance?

If so, then it should always have a separate isolator.

Toby...

Reply to
Toby

On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 13:52:33 +0000 someone who may be Andrew May wrote this:-

How far are they apart?

Reply to
David Hansen

No idea but I assume fairly close otherwise I wouldn't have expected him to pass comment.

Reply to
Andrew May

Not sure whether it's required by 17th series or not, but it seem to be common practice. In our new kitchen last year, the electrician installed FOUR separate radial circuits back to the CU for:

  • Main oven
  • Combi Microwave oven
  • Induction hob
  • Ceramic hob . . each with its own isolator switch near the appliance
Reply to
Roger Mills

On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:57:10 -0000 someone who may be "Roger Mills" wrote this:-

Were they paid by the circuit?

Depending on the ratings and locations of the appliances and consumer unit these could probably best have been wired up using one radial circuit, probably with a switched fused connection unit for the oven and the microwave. Separate switches for each hob would be nice, but not necessary unless they are far apart.

Reply to
David Hansen

I have a separate gas hob and electric oven, both on the same switch (for the igniter)

tim

Reply to
tim....

JOOI, is there any reason why? Other than the convenience of being able to turn off the oven but still use the hob or vice-versa.

Andrew

Reply to
Andrew May

Is the hob fused accordingly? (probably 3A)?

If so, then I expect that is OK - in the OP's case, the induction hob is probably going to be on a 30A radial of it's own!

Toby...

Reply to
Toby

It all depends on the oven and hob requirements.

If the oven needs to be protected at 16A, and the hob at 32A, then you are going to need to either run a separate cables all the way back to the consumer unit for each, and will therefore need two isolation switches near the appliances, or you can run a single larger circuit from the main consumer unit, terminating in another consumer unit with a 32A and 16A MCB in it - then you can just have one isolator on the cable between the small consumer unit and the main one (I expect)

IANAE (I am not an electrician.)

Reply to
Toby

I think it depends on the ovens - I have a single built in oven and a single built in oven/microwave (Siemens) - both specify they are to be protected to

16A, so I have separate circuits and isolators for both these, and another for the induction hob (32A)
Reply to
Toby

The size of terminals also springs to mind.. Putting 2 cables into one switch or using one cooking appliance as a 'loop-through' could cause difficulties with terminals. Separate circuits - correctly fused with correct cable sizes seems logical to me.

Reply to
John

On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 09:37:35 -0000 someone who may be "John" wrote this:-

It could be a problem with some makes of switch.

Reply to
David Hansen

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