Seized stopcock

[John E]

I wanted to turn the cold water supply off today but found that the stopcock in the kitchen has seized up - It has always been stiff but now it will only turn about 1/8th of a turn and will not off or on. I have put some plusgas on the spindle but can not get it to turn any more.

Unfortunately the body of the tap is virtually inaccessible since the kitchen was refitted (in the far corner under fitted base units)and I cannot get to the attached drain c*ck either. This means the tap is going to be very difficult to replace if this proves necessary. I hope that someone might have an idea as to an easier solution. Please!

John

[daddyfreddy]

Can you not turn off the supply via the main water stopcock in front of your house? It's normally on the street or your front garden.

[A.Lee]

Have you got a stop c*ck/tap in the street under a small square plate? If not, the keep trying the oil/penetrating fluid. Mine was similar, but eventually freed off to allow turning on/off. Also, if you can get access, release the brass nut a little, near the tap body. Alan.

[Ed Sirett]

Turn off in garden/pavement. Put in new stop c*ck, preferrably a 1/4 turn high quality full bore unit.

[John E]

I hope I can. The stopcock in the street was replaced a few years ago just before we had a water meter fitted so should be in reasonable condition.

John

[John E]

I do have a stopcock in the street, Alan, and I will have to use that in future - I will have a look at it in the morning to make sure it works.

I have tried loosening the nut but it makes no difference - other than leak water :-)

John

[John E]

I would if I could. Where it is situated it would mean dismantling part of the kitchen base units and worktop. Even then it is a peculiar fitting as it is screwed into the end of an alkathene pipe,

John

[Roger Mills]

Where does the pipe go after the stopcock? Can't you ignore the existing one, and fit another one (or two if it branches) a bit higher up?

[Appin]

The message from "John E" contains these words:

[Appin]

The message from "John E" contains these words:

I second the "fit another higher up" suggestion.

In the meantime, however, have you tried putting a little pressure on to see if it will OPEN further?

And once you get the water off from the stopcock in the street and do you best to drain off whatever water may be in the rising main (unfortunately the street stopcock won't do that for you, if it's a new one :-( ) you can undo the gland nut further in an attempt to free up the existing stopcock.

[John E]

Thanks for the suggestion, Roger, it had me quite excited for a bit. I have looked at what pipes I can see using a mirror on a stick and a torch to look behind the panels. The pipe does branch. One I could get to by cutting the back panel of the cupboard but not the other. It seems as though I will have to rely on the tap in the street. I should have spotted this potential situation when the kitchen was installed I suppose.

John

[Stewart]

For the future (no help for you just now) I have learned never to fully close or open a stopcock. If closing I close it then turn about an eighth back, likewise when leaving open I open then turn a little way back.

[Appin]

The message from "John E" contains these words:

Is it really all that impossible to remove the base unit concerned? I've had all the units out in our kitchen at least once and there was no real problem removing and reinstalling. The worst part was thinking about it. On each occasion the job itself went without a hitch.

[Andy Champ]

I'm with you on the fully open, but they sometimes have to be completely shut. It's kind of annoying to have a trickle all over the floor while you're working, even if it's better than a flood.

Andy

[David Hansen]

On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 18:43:37 GMT someone who may be "John E" wrote this:-

You should remember next time:-(

Little used valves should be operated fully every 6 months or so. Close them fully and then open them fully. Then close "traditional" valves by about 1/4 turn to stop them seizing open. This makes it more likely that the valve will operate when it is wanted, which tends to either be when water is pouring over the floor for some reason or when about to start a big job.

[dennis]

I tend to find its at the start of a small job, like swapping a dishwasher that one finds the taps don't work. This makes it into a bigger job. At least I had the sense to put the pipes in the unit rather than behind it. ;-) Who cares if the wife can get less washing up liquid (that we don't use) in the unit?

[John E]

Thanks for your response. I know this is a DIY group but there are limits to what I would tackle. The base unit in question is the sink unit. Apart from the pipes for the sink and dishwasher taps and waste coming and exiting through nice neat holes there is the question of the worktop. There are two mitre joins that I would not want to disturb. I am sure many contributors to this group are capable of doing this but I am afraid I am not one of them :-(

I have inspected the outside stopcock and this works OK so I will use this in future. Not as convenient but owned and maintained by the water company :-)

John

[John E]

:-))

At least the outside stopcock works.

John

[John E]

I agree. The fitter made a very good job of the kitchen but perhaps access to plumbing was not a priority :-) When I can, I always put isolating valves on any new installation to minimise the number of times I have to turn off the whole supply.

John

[John E]

I have tried turning it both ways but it still only moves about 1/8th turn. I don't want to use a wrench on it in case it breaks the spindle - or probably worse - loosens the connections either side of the tap. I too thought about loosening the gland nut and did this with the mains on and of course water came out quite quickly :-). I didn't do it with the water off. Do you think that if I undo it more it would make difference? The tap just seems to hit a solid block after the little bit off turn there is.

Thanks for the thought.

John