Seized nut on copper trap/waste outlet problem.

I need to replace the trap that was connected to a shower tray in 1968. This trap, which is a shallow type, is made from copper, and has become perforated with a dozen small holes on the waterline of the water retained in the trap.

The snag is that the nut that connects the trap to the tail of the waste outlet is seized up, and I can not move it. The shower tray seems to be made from glazed clayware (also from 1968), so heating the seized up nut is not an option.

Can anyone suggest a way of tackling this problem?

Regards.

Reply to
Cycle
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Can you cut through the copper trap? Hacksaw?

Reply to
Ian Stirling

Ian, thank you for your interest.

I am not sure I understand your meaning. I am wondering where you would cut the shallow copper trap? If the copper trap was cut off close to the retaining nut, the nut would still be in place on the waste outlet tail, together with some remnants of the copper trap. I don't see how a new trap could be fitted in such circumstances. It looks as though I have not caught up with your thinking?

Were you thinking that the trap could be cut, leaving a tail in place, onto which a compression fitting could be fitted? Unfortunately, because it is a shallow trap, there does not seem to be enough copper there to do this.

Cycle.

Reply to
Cycle

to release it you need to cut through the nut, hacksaw, dremel or drilling would be my preferred options

Reply to
mrcheerful

mrcheerful - is cutting through the nut in one position likely to release the gunge of 30 years to enable the nut to turn? I have no experience in this area, and was wondering what to expect.

If I had a go at this, presumably I would have to first cut off the copper trap, close to the nut. This would then give access to cut along the retaining lip of the nut (i.e. along a diameter), before making another cut at right angles, this time along the thickness of the nut.

Reply to
Cycle

Personally, I'd drill through the side of the nut then open it up with some form of wedge.

Reply to
s--p--o--n--i--x

Go to

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and put 17610 in the search box. Handy tools, can save a lot of hassle.

Reply to
Rob Morley

I'd guess that the waste is steel or brass, and the copper has well and truly 'welded' itself to it through chemical action. I've had exactly the same on a central heating pump.

You'll have to cut through the copper nut with a saw. Perhaps something like a dremel if space is tight. There's no point in trying to save it as the threads will likely have eroded away anyway.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Thank you for the suggestion of using a nut-splitter. I note that the maximum size of the Screwfix item is 22mm, whereas the nut I am dealing with is around 45mm. I bought one of the Screwfix sets a couple of years ago, and tried using the small size splitter. The nut was undamaged, but the splitter wedge-end started to flake apart. Perhaps they are of better quality now.

Reply to
Cycle

Have you any experience of how likely it is that cutting through the captive nut will allow it to be released from 35 years of being "welded" by chemical action? The tail of the waste fitting will need to remain intact if It is to be reused to make a watertight join onto a new trap. I believe (from what I have read) that the thread on the captive nut of a new trap is still the same size as it was in 1968 when this fitting was new. So a new captive nut will fit on the 1968 waste fitting tail.

Reply to
Cycle

That was a useless suggestion then. A big nut is an easier target for an angle grinder :-)

I was there looking for something else - I've never tried that particular type.

Reply to
Rob Morley

Once you've cut - or nearly cut - through, a twist of a screwdriver in the slot should split it and spring it free. You won't need much force.

Yup - I don't think those threads have ever changed.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The big snag with these things and plumbing is that you have to slip it over the pipe. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Thank you for the information. I think I shall arm myself with a Dremel, plus two sizes of hacksaw as a backup, and see what happens.

Regards,

Cycle

Reply to
Cycle

Easy enough to chop a bit out then join it again afterwards - well, easier than shifting a seized fitting in an awkward corner anyway. But I'm more of a mechanic than a plumber - can you tell? :-)

Reply to
Rob Morley

Oh I've got a set and use them on car stuff - but often you still can't get them on. Common nuts to seize on a car are exhaust ones - and there's not usually enough clearance between the pipe or manifold and nut for a splitter.

It's not that common for plumbing type joints to seize solid, since the majority are brass to brass. But brass or copper to steel seems to be a problem.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

But that's a brass nut on a steel bolt - a quick blast with the oxy- acetylene will have it dripping off in no time :-)

Reply to
Rob Morley

If only they were. Can you see the likes of Kwik-Fit using brass nuts? ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

A drill could well be quicker. Use it to drill a hole part way through the nut and then give the nut a tap with a sharp tipped tool. It should open the nut a treat.

Dave

Reply to
Dave

If its as difficult as it sounds, it might be a lot easier to just line the inside of the trap with a long lasting setting gloop.

NT

Reply to
bigcat

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