Actually there are quite a few solder joints, you just can't see them! No special deliberate strategy, just convenience.
I've intentionally used compression joints in any location where future "tweaking" may be necessary
D
No problem sir.
Vortex5 wibbled on Sunday 03 January 2010 15:59
I was concerned about that with mine. Plan is to have the all pipes above the top of the unit - except for 4 straights going directly through a wall at the back corner - but those could be cut, and reinserted and rejointed clear of the tank, being straight... This makes sense for me as all the CH pipes need to head ceilingwards, the boiler is nearby and high level and the PlateX and pump assembly will be high up on the wall.
I've gone to the trouble to cover the wall with floor to ceiling wood battens every 2 foot to make fixing the pipes simple. I still need to do a number of crossovers with vertical runs so it's going to get interesting. I think I will spend a week planning it on paper before I touch a pipe cutter!
The Medway Handyman wibbled on Sunday 03 January 2010 16:50
I have that spanner. It's bloody good when it fits. It seems to fit "ordinary" compression joints (whatever that means) but not some types or Peglar valve.
I would say it's worth having because it's very nice when you can use it.
I wonder if I should have ordered 2? I can imagine an inline compression fitting, or isolation valve being a particular headache if you can't grip both ends.
...but actually I have a very thin jawed welding clamp (uses mole grip technology) with which I can improvise.
D
I am installing an XCEL 2009 from
I have opted for the unvented system option, which introduces a variety of complications, not least finding a home for the 100 litre expansion vessel. All resolved though.
Because the overall system volume will approach 600 litres it will need a lot of inhibitor. I have put check valves all over the place so I can deal with most leaks or problems without draining down the main store. I am however troubled by the thought of losing 50 quids worth of inhibitor If I have to drain down the whole thing!
All being well should be commissioned within a week, and I intend to run it for a while with no new inhibitor to check integrity first.
DVortex5 wibbled on Sunday 03 January 2010 19:21
I specc'd my own tank - a plain solar enabled jobbie with extra tappings all over. Vented system (I understand them) - but as luck would have it, there's a perfect location for the header tank (oversized oviously) in a bit of dead space in the attic above and along a bit - at least I should manage a gradient on the fill and expansion pipes to assist with filling and removeal of trapped air. That's the plan anyway :-o
Yes it will. Mine is 350l rough total estimate and that's already wallet burningly large amounts of inhibitor.
Ditto. I hope to fill the system once and flush, drain, fill with inhibitor and not drain it for the lifetime of the chemicals.
Indeed - I'd run it on plain water for a bit to check everything's happy and there are no leaks, air traps or any other little mods needed[1]. Week or two on plain shouldn't hurt it. It will ensure all the flux and crap is well washed out too, or translated, the flux is washed out and the crap is in the bottom of the store where it's not doing any harm.
[1] I would like to put air seperators in as many places as practical (meaning high points, but where there isn't enough pump pressure to pump over into the expansion tank via the seperator). As my tank is below everything it feeds, it won't likely accumulate air appearing in other parts.Good luck - brave man doing it this time of year (or do you not have any CH anyway?).
CH is working fine.....thankfully.
Fortunately the new tank is in a different location to (what will be) the old tank so the transition should be very quick. A few hours.
I have purchased a solar controller already (resol) and will get some tube collectors from
Final step is a new boiler in the summer. Current Potterton is non-condensing. Have been looking at the Viessmann system boilers as an alternative.
All up I hope to halve the gas bill.
D
Are you using the vented expansion vessel?
Put in full bore valve as isolators to avoid losing the inhibitor.
I've thought hard about this and will be installing a full bore valve at the main feed to the store.
Whilst not strictly compliant, this will solve the problem.
In any event the store has 2 pressure relief points (one by the expansion vessel and one at the top). I will also make sure the valve is disabled so it cannot be casually closed.
Vortex5 wibbled on Monday 04 January 2010 06:30
Why do you think it's not compliant - sounds fine to me. The expansion pipe at the top is serving the purpose perfectly.
I am going by DPS' own manual which has words to the effect: "The expansion relief valve must be connected directly to the feed input of the heatbank without the possibility of isolation"
But hey rules are made for breaking....and there is another valve.
D
Then it was a shit spanner to start with.
All joints are accessible. Its only a question of how much house you have to remove to access them.
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher saying something like:
How little you know.
I'd agree with you: I've a ring spanner for 1/2" tail nuts that was made by cutting out a 16mm piece (sorry - not with an AG), sawing off the cut ring and welding it back on 90 deg. for getting under sinks etc.
It's had a fair bit of force on it at times and is still in perfect condition.
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember PeterC saying something like:
And what was the wall thickness and depth of this ring spanner to start with? I suspect it was a fairly hefty old piece. NP's assertion that it would be 'a shit spanner to begin with' is full of holes - then again, he talks much shit. Many of the high-quality slimline ring spanners wouldn't stand for this kind of treatment, but you'd tend to find the older low-tech, low-browed, material-instead-of-quality designs might, probably not for long though. Here's a clue - I have several Snap-On open brakeline spanners going back decades and without exception they are all hex (not 12-pointed) and heavy sidewalled to compensate for the open end.
Aye, shit spanners indeed.
Th day I put 100lb ft on a compression fitting is the day you can call me Drivel.
You simply don't NEED that much.
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher saying something like:
Who mentioned 100ft/lb? A bodgy cut-apart ring will open at much less than that.
Go and service a nuke.
Third-world job: England, Bedford vanadium. Wall's about 2.5mm/1.5mm,
12-point. Obviously I use a lever through t'other end.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.