I wish to erect a shed in the corner of my garden. Two sides of the shed will be no more than 10 cm from fences. So I need a means of erecting a shed from the inside. The two sides referred to could be built nearby and slid sideways into position, but the problem is fixing them to the framework. Shed base to be not more than 183 cm square. Any thoughts about where I may find plans for such a shed?
Is it not possible to erect the entire shed remotely, and then slide then entire thing into place a la Belle Tout Lighthouse?
JGH
I shall be working on my own and moving a whole shed--even a small one--may not be possible.
Thanks for the replies. What dimensions of timber should I use for the frame, and what timber should I use for the cladding? (Sorry, I know nothing about these things.)
Buy a number of tortoises and wait until they hibernate. Mount the shed on their shells and put some lettuce in the corner of the garden. When the tortoises wake up they will see the lettuce and crawl towards it, taking the shed with them.
Bill
And what timber should be used for the floor, what angle should the roof slope at, and what should the roof be made of and covered in?
The wood in contact with the hard standing (or whatever the word may be, it's made of 18" square paving slabs) will get wet when it rains and stay wet for some time thereafter. How do I stop it from rotting?
If you're happy with a non-timber substitute, the resin sheds would be easy. You can build those from the inside...
That's not such a daft idea, in my opinion. Well... not tortoises exactly, but if I had to build a shed into an awkward corner, I'd be tempted to build it somewhere easily accessible then roll it into place on round wooden poles. The round wooden poles become the floor joists and, once the flooring has been nailed in place, the whole thing becomes rock solid.
Nick
I built a 12 x 8 shed, using fairly solid construction (3/4" shiplap on
3x2" framing), in a similar circumstance, and had no difficulty shifting it with two walls clad and attached to a floor assembly.This was how close to the boundary it was:
Depends on what you want to spend and how solid you want it to be...
Cheap light commercial sheds will use framing that may be as skimpy as
35mm square, and not much of it, and then 12mm shiplap.Something like the first workshop I built:
You could opt for none (i.e. the floor is whatever base its sat on). However IME 19mm WBP ply makes a decent floor.
In my design I specced 30 deg, however when I built it, I found 20 looked "right"
12mm OSB3 is probably a reasonable choice if reasonably well supported.For covering I would use a couple of layers of torch on felt... probably a 2mm underlay, and a 4mm cap sheet. That will give a very good and long lasting roof.
Cheap shed felt will cost far less however, but probably won't last 5 years.
You can stand it off the base on blocks / bricks / or sacrificial timber bearers.
You can combine this with one of the other ideas. Use substantial round pressure treated fencing posts as the rollers. Try Countrywide or a similar farm shop, rather than a "shed". These should last ages when resting on paving slabs. Screw through the floor to hold them in position. When / if they rot and need replacing, undo the screws, roll / drag it back and replace them. I'd be inclined to use 3 for a 6x6 shed.
Cheapest construction method is feather edge fence board, with boards horizontal (pointing upwards). As others have said, don't skimp on the roof.
I built a shed by putting the posts up first, then adding horizontal and diagonal members between them, then screwing plywood from the inside to form 3 of the walls (close to fences and a hedge), and finally putting cladding on the (fully accessible) front. Oh, and I put a corrugated plastic roof on it too (working mainly from the inside and front, but a little from the back).
That is what I shall do. Thank you. Now, before bolting the frames together should I apply glue to the wood surfaces? My thought is that a long vertical gap (be it ever so thin) will let in moisture as rain runs down. Glue will keep the moisture out; it's role as an adhesive being secondary. What do you think?
Fit a length of gutter to that side, and direct into a water but... save letting the inaccessible side get too wet.
Sorry about the daft question(*), the frames won't be exposed. But there'll be other vertical gaps.
(* Not the last, I suspect.:-)
I have an *inside out* shed. I suspect it was supplied to my father during WWII when a Bren Gun Carrier and some squaddies were billeted here.
The inside is vertical T+G boarding nailed to a 3"x3" frame. The top edge of the horizontals is *weathered* slightly to shed rain and the whole thing heavily impregnated with some sort of bitumen. regards
If I use a corrugated, transparent plastic roof how do I close off the wavy edge so that the weather doesn't get in?
TBH it sounds like you would be better off buying a shed. They are delivered as 4 sides, a base & 2 roof sections.
Assemble & slide into place.
You will regret that when it comes to re felting the roof in a few years time.
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