Seeking shed plans for inaccessible location

Frederick Williams wrote:

Is it not possible to erect the entire shed remotely, and then
slide then entire thing into place a la Belle Tout Lighthouse?

JGH

jgharston wrote:

I shall be working on my own and moving a whole shed--even a small
one--may not be possible.

--
When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by
this sign, that the dunces are all in confederacy against him.
Jonathan Swift: Thoughts on Various Subjects, Moral and Diverting

On 17/04/2012 21:34, Frederick Williams wrote:

I built a 12 x 8 shed, using fairly solid construction (3/4" shiplap on
3x2" framing), in a similar circumstance, and had no difficulty shifting
it with two walls clad and attached to a floor assembly.

This was how close to the boundary it was:

http://www.internode.co.uk/workshop/images/thebase.jpg

Shifted it enough to get behind and clad. Clad, and pushed it back again:

http://www.internode.co.uk/workshop/images/4walls.jpg



--
Cheers,

John.

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jgharston wrote:

Buy a number of tortoises and wait until they hibernate. Mount the shed
on their shells and put some lettuce in the corner of the garden. When
the tortoises wake up they will see the lettuce and crawl towards it,
taking the shed with them.

Bill

wrote:


That's not such a daft idea, in my opinion. Well... not tortoises
exactly, but if I had to build a shed into an awkward corner, I'd be
tempted to build it somewhere easily accessible then roll it into
place on round wooden poles. The round wooden poles become the floor
joists and, once the flooring has been nailed in place, the whole
thing becomes rock solid.

Nick

Frederick Williams wrote:

Thanks for the replies.  What dimensions of timber should I use for the
frame, and what timber should I use for the cladding?  (Sorry, I know
nothing about these things.)

--
When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by
this sign, that the dunces are all in confederacy against him.
Jonathan Swift: Thoughts on Various Subjects, Moral and Diverting

Frederick Williams wrote:

And what timber should be used for the floor, what angle should the roof
slope at, and what should the roof be made of and covered in?  

The wood in contact with the hard standing (or whatever the word may be,
it's made of 18" square paving slabs) will get wet when it rains and
stay wet for some time thereafter.  How do I stop it from rotting?

--
When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by
this sign, that the dunces are all in confederacy against him.
Jonathan Swift: Thoughts on Various Subjects, Moral and Diverting

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 22:15:17 +0100, Frederick Williams wrote:


If you're happy with a non-timber substitute, the resin sheds would be
easy. You can build those from the inside...



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
 http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 17/04/2012 22:15, Frederick Williams wrote:

Depends on what you want to spend and how solid you want it to be...

Cheap light commercial sheds will use framing that may be as skimpy as
35mm square, and not much of it, and then 12mm shiplap.

Something like the first workshop I built:

http://www.internode.co.uk/workshop/plans.htm

Detail:

http://www.internode.co.uk/workshop/phase3.htm


Used significantly heavier timber and cladding.


You could opt for none (i.e. the floor is whatever base its sat on).
However IME 19mm WBP ply makes a decent floor.


In my design I specced 30 deg, however when I built it, I found 20
looked "right"


12mm OSB3 is probably a reasonable choice if reasonably well supported.

For covering I would use a couple of layers of torch on felt... probably
a 2mm underlay, and a 4mm cap sheet. That will give a very good and long
lasting roof.

Cheap shed felt will cost far less however, but probably won't last 5
years.


You can stand it off the base on blocks / bricks / or sacrificial timber
bearers.



--
Cheers,

John.

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You can combine this with one of the other ideas. Use substantial round
pressure treated fencing posts as the rollers. Try Countrywide or a
similar farm shop, rather than a "shed". These should last ages when
resting on paving slabs. Screw through the floor to hold them in
position. When / if they rot and need replacing, undo the screws, roll /
drag it back and replace them. I'd be inclined to use 3 for a 6x6 shed.

Cheapest construction method is feather edge fence board, with boards
horizontal (pointing upwards). As others have said, don't skimp on the roof.

jgharston wrote:

Thank you.  I didn't know it existed.

--
When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by
this sign, that the dunces are all in confederacy against him.
Jonathan Swift: Thoughts on Various Subjects, Moral and Diverting

On 17/04/2012 22:15, Frederick Williams wrote:

TBH it sounds like you would be better off buying a shed.  They are
delivered as 4 sides, a base & 2 roof sections.

Assemble & slide into place.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Sliding may be impractical: I am shall be working on my own and I am not
strong.

Sliding may be impossible: a bought shed will be susceptible to damp
too, and I may wish it to go up on to bricks (or blocks of some kind).

--
When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by
this sign, that the dunces are all in confederacy against him.
Jonathan Swift: Thoughts on Various Subjects, Moral and Diverting

Frederick Williams wrote:

use levers and wedges etc.


yup. I am thinking 'shed' too and a brick plinth THEN DPC THEN timber -
and pantiles on the roof, seems to be where its at :).

I am sick of replacing felt..

--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:


It is a well-known fact that the ancient Egyptians had the help of alien
spacemen when they needed to move sheds.

--
When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by
this sign, that the dunces are all in confederacy against him.
Jonathan Swift: Thoughts on Various Subjects, Moral and Diverting

On 19/04/2012 20:36, Frederick Williams wrote:

I think you may be over estimating the quantity of wood used in
commercial sheds. Getting them to not blow away is usually more of a
problem.


--
Cheers,

John.

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On 2012-04-17, Frederick Williams wrote:


I built a shed by putting the posts up first, then adding horizontal
and diagonal members between them, then screwing plywood from the
inside to form 3 of the walls (close to fences and a hedge), and
finally putting cladding on the (fully accessible) front.  Oh, and I
put a corrugated plastic roof on it too (working mainly from the
inside and front, but a little from the back).

Dave Liquorice wrote:

That is what I shall do.  Thank you.  Now, before bolting the frames
together should I apply glue to the wood surfaces?  My thought is that a
long vertical gap (be it ever so thin) will let in moisture as rain runs
down.  Glue will keep the moisture out; it's role as an adhesive being
secondary.  What do you think?

--
When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by
this sign, that the dunces are all in confederacy against him.
Jonathan Swift: Thoughts on Various Subjects, Moral and Diverting

On 18/04/2012 16:45, Frederick Williams wrote:

Fit a length of gutter to that side, and direct into a water but... save
letting the inaccessible side get too wet.


--
Cheers,

John.

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|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk |
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|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
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