You can get one size packs from screwfix and the like. I tend to get cheapies and throw them for all undercoats and a Harris or something like that for finishing and then immediately clean it.
Hmm! £12 per brush @ 5 minutes to clean = £144 per hour, what does he paint or does he use cr@p brushes? I have some I paid about 15p each for but they ain't for putting gloss on doors.
That's the container (a large ex-pickled cabbage glass jar works for me) you use to give your brush its first clean with white spirit. You then leave the contents for a week or two, until the paint settles into a sludge, then decant off the white spirit for re-use. Put the jar away for a few months, until the sludge solidifies, then remove the sludge, and dispose of it as a solid lump. Re-use the jar for brush cleaning etc.
Don't you line your shelves with sheets of newspaper?
But will it take a 8"x10" enlarger?
I changed in 2003 (shot my last film), my enlargers(2) are still in the darkroom with a wet bench, colour processor and film processor.
I haven't looked back, better for my health not breathing or touching chemicals.
I can digitize old film formats, manipulate to any film texture and print to 24" wide on the Epson printer.
But I'm thinking of resurrecting my 120 panoramic cameras and the E6 processor. i don't like the feel of digital images.
r
Possibly not, but I don't use bigger than 120 rollfilm, anyway.
Another excellent reason. Which reminds me...
I know for a fact that the detail inside the silhouette couldn't possibly be reproduce on *any* digital printout. Black on darker black, it is, and *very* subtle.
Try this technique:
Done.
For latex or water-based paints, add fabric softener to the water in which you swish the brush.
Well yes they can now - my printer has 4 blacks, three are used at anyone time, which enable you to reproduce a very good grey scale.(Epson
7900 11 inks) unlike the others that mix colours to imitate black. I think that the blacks would show better detail than the Ciba, which I found too contrasty. r
He must be made of money unless he uses cheap brushes and by using cheap throw away brushes how does he produce a decent finish. This painter can't value his work very much.
Stephen.
I buy semi expensive brushes. Can't imagine throwing them away after every job. It does not take long to clean a brush specially if you use a paint cleaning comb.
Don't forget to exhale ten times.
The only disadvantage (as I pointed out upthread) is that this creates a bit of a mess when it has to be removed.
Back in the days before digital cameras, we used to use collapsable plastic jars for chemicals used to process film and prints. Same reasons - keep the volume of air contained inside to a minimum.
Less of a mess than the skin? :-)
Sure you can. Put your computer desk in the darkroom.
What's half an hour of time worth? For a DIY job you can mabee forget about it - but commercially that buys a pretty decent brush.
For day to day, the cling wrap in the refrigerator works well. And the same painter, when doing apartments etc - all the same colour - DOES stretch a brush - uncleaned - that way.
He buys his brushes in bulk from a brush distributor - and his roller sleeves.
RE: Subject
That's why propane torches and dead weight hammers exist.
Haven't had a can of paint skin over in years.
Lew
And spin around three times whilst scratching your ear.
For cleaning brushes, a spinner is mandatory. Something like this:
Save the old dirty thinner, and next time, all the heavy pigments settle to the bottom and the old thinner is now clean.. Use the old thinner to clean next time, only using a bit of new thinner for the last couple of cleans. This is really easy, uses almost no thinner and really keeps your brushes nice.
You need 3 cans/jars to do this, one for storing old thinner, one to clean the brush, and an intermediate one to store the newly dirty thinner. When done, pour the dirty thinner into the old thinner storage can. You can use lacquer thinner but lacquer suspends the pigments forever, while turps or mineral spirits lets the pigments drop to the bottom, leaving clean thinner.
Don't use your good oil brushes for water based paints (hide them from your wife). Clean the cheaper plastic water brushes with just water and the spinner, or throw them away after your wife paints (and never ever cleans a brush)...
That works.
I also save dirty thinners and allow the pigments to settle.
By Lacquer thinners do you mean Cellulose thinner? However using Cellulose/Lacquer type thinners will destroy the natural spring in the brush resulting in a useless floppy brush.
You have described the above method the wrong way round though, Turps will coagulate the paint whereas Cellulose or as you call it lacquer thinner will draw the paint completely out of the bristle stock, as does mineral Naphtha but Naphtha will not destroy the spring in a natural bristle brush.
Stephen.
I heard THAT. I've had more than one $20 Purdy brush ruined by the wife...
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