back box sinking. Good control and less shock imparted to the wall as far as I can see.
But, is there a good way to stop the comb from sliding around in the holder? I mean it's tight as in you need a vice to shift it - but when the SDS gets going it tends to work it's way quite quickly to one side, then onto an angle then fall off.
I have to take the bit out of the drill every few minutes and give it a whack against a clubhammer to reset it.
ARWadsworth coughed up some electrons that declared:
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>>>>>>> for back box sinking. Good control and less shock imparted to the wall >>>> as
No really - the chiselling action is second to none. You can get flat backs to the box holes and with a 2kg Hitachi (powerful but subtle) I don't end up shaking the whole wall to bits.
I'm surprised they didn't put a locking pin in though, or just put some nibs on the ends of the jaw slot. Might ring Armeg and tell them...
I'll persevere - there must be an answer. Jubilee clip first...
BTW - the Aldi wall chaser is holding up well. Munched its way through some old metal capping and VIR cable yesterday. Apart from the sparks and stinking rubber smell, seems none the worse.
I am sticking to 16mm oval conduit on the basis 2 round wires (coax, cat5 etc) go down it, or anything upto about 4mm2 on the mains side.
Plaster is deep enough so chasing is easier - slot to the brick face and pop the fillet out. Did do one for 20mm round conduit, but whilst not that hard, was somewhat more boring to knock the brick out too.
Slightly annoying thing: Aldi wall chaser set for 20mm slot is slightly too tight for a 20mm cranked chaser chisel[1] and all my other chisels are too big. Had to set the Aldi for 30mm chases (or whatever).
[1] Chisel binds and most of the SDS output transmits to the entire wall - not good.
1m long 20mm SDS drill works for getting behind coving - as per John Rumm's wiki about getting behind skirting.
Jubilee clip is traditional, it the holder is approximately round enough (the "stainless strip on a roll" DIY worm-drive clips are usually more flexible than original Jubilees)
Tie-wraps work but wear out quickly, or instantly if they catch the side of what you're chiselling. OK for carving, pretty much unworkable down a box sink.
The way I was shown (originally for manual ones, but it works for SDS too) is to use a centre punch to raise a crater or two on the surface of a new comb. This is not only an indent, but also a raised lip. Getting the lip height right gives just enough friction to hold it in place, assuming a few light taps to get it installed.
A wrap of insulation tape doesn't last, but self-amalg does if you leave it a while to bond before using it.
Andy Dingley coughed up some electrons that declared:
Thanks Andy - I'll give that a try today.
I just this minute rang Armeg technical. They said that they didn't close the slot ends off (obvious solution) because they didn't want to restrict the market to using their combs only (fair enough). Same problem applied to putting a locking pin in - as generic combs don't have a hole.
They said they'd send me a couple of their own combs gratis, to see if they worked better. They even offered to take the chisel back to see if their was a defect, but I assured them it seemed fine in itself (holds the bit pretty tight).
We also mused about me trying to grind one of my combs shorter so there was no overhang - I'll try that after your centrepunch idea.
Hard enough that when I tried Andy's centre punch idea, I made a visible mark that you couldn't feel on the comb, and the pointy bit on my (admittedly antique) punch is now flat!
The only way through one of those is with a grinder!
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