drill a 3mm hole into the timber tight against the broken screw now gently knock the screw into said hole with a hammer and nail punch or similar this should loosen the screw enough to get it out with a pair of pincers if you reuse the handles you wont see any damage
yorik
Mole grips? Shark pry bar would probably do it
Can you still get real Mole wrenches? I have one, but I haven't seen the real thing in shops for many a year.
All the ersatz ones I've come across have been very poor, both in effectiveness and finish (and probably longevity).
Are they?
Yes, I was given one of those (never had a real one, my Dad did but my brother in law snaffled all his tools).
I remember using it one day...as usual, you close it around the item, do up the screw, take it off, do up the screw a bit more and then clamp it back on. It wasn't gripping so I did up the screw a bit more, then squeezed hard to clamp it. The whole handle crumpled.
imho genuine Mole wrenches are a vastly inferior product to Vise Grips. The release mechanism is more awkward, and the "fixed" jaw is only riveted to the body. My genuine Mole is relegated to use as a welding clamp or a "hell, where's the decent one gone?" role. They're both around 40 years old, but the jaw on the genuine one was brazed back on
35 years ago, when a BMC 1100 subframe presented too great a challenge to its rivet.
Learn the lesson for the future and grease the screws first. Even consider pilot holes instead of just using bfi to get the screws in (see various threads, passim)
heat them up with a big soldering iron to char the wood around them. then try again.
Robert
Don't worry, I've learnt!
Hey! Less of the i! But, yes, the cordless was pretty brutal and fast, but I'm paying for it now.
I'll try a couple of the other suggestions and then, if needed, pay B&Q a visit: it's an hour round trip.
I ground one side of mine to give a flush edge - mostly use that side - but kept the other side the original shape "just in case".
Geo
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