Hi all,
what would be the best way to prevent floorboards from splitting when driving screws into them. I have read about 3 things so far:
- drill pilot hole to accomodate countersunk head
- use partly threaded screws
- use waxed screws
Which one works best ? Do you know of any other factors ?
I know pilot hole helps, but it's not very efficient if you have to drill two times for one screw. Is there a screw type/technique that allows to avoid that ?
many thanks for your help,
There are combination bits where you can adjust the countersink position. Plasterboard or carcass screws are less likely to split the wood but, given the general state of old boards, I'd go with the pilot hole option.
For efficiency, use a screw that's designed not to need predrilling in softwood:
================================== A set of these will help to speed up the process:
Two drills makes it much simpler, one to drill, the other to screw.
Or you could try :
1) drill a pilot hole through the board and into the joist. 2) widen the pilot hole in the board only to the diameter of the screw's shoulder. 3) countersink the hole and use countersunk screws
I'd agree with that 100%. Screwfix Turbo Gold screws are brilliant - I've taken some right liberties with them & not split the wood.
In the absense of two drills a flip driver would help
Yep, fantastic, and you can make such quick progress with the TG screws, I've used thousands of the bsuggers. The only (slight) downside that I've found with them is that they won't pull two pieces of wood together. If the two pieces have a gap between them then the TG screw will maintain that gap perfectly! Any attempt to turn the screw harder just results in the self countersinking heat digging in deeper.
Julian
I have used the stainless steel version and the same is true except its easy to shear the head on the 6 mm ones. Damn B&D drill.. last notch on the clutch is not enough.. drill is head gone.
I've found that as well. If you hold the two pieces together firmly & use the driver in bursts it seem to overcome the problem. Backing out the screw & then re driving it works as well.
The larger ones have a plain bit of shank so it doesn't happen with them.
I can't believe what I'm reading in this thread. Do people really mean that they fasten two pieces of wood together by simply walloping a screw through one into the other? No clearance hole in the top one, nor pilot in the lower one? OK, I'll accept that the pilot hole in the lower piece is often unnecessary in softwood, but surely you all drill clearance holes? My grandfather will be spinning in his grave like one of the wooden wheels he was apprenticed to make.
Why not go the whole hog and put them in with a Brummagem screwdriver?
"Screwdrivers are for taking them out", anyone?
Have you looked at the technology in that screw? Self drilling, etc.
Screws have moved on. Its the 21st century now. If your gradfather had Turbo Golds & a drill drive he would have used them:-)
Have a look at the 'turbogold' range of screws available from Screwfix, they're very thin with threads like razors - drilling clearance holes would be counterproductive.
They're IMO a very useful product, but prolly not what you would use on an antique chair or table!
Julian.
Also you can wallop them straight into (softer) breeze block. I've hung a noticeboard on a block wall like this - maybe not recommended if you are after maximum strength though.
Julian.
You're right if you are using an old fashioned wood screw. If however you are using one specifically designed not to need clearance or pilot holes, drilling them just makes the fastening weaker!
Surely if you don't make a clearance hole the screw must cut a thread into both bits of wood, therefore how are the bits pulled together as the screw is tightened?
I still prefer a clearance hole and use of a countersink bit...
Well, it does depend on the wood. For harder softwoods a clearance and countersink would be indicated. For oak you need everything and for most carcassing softwoods, modern screws seem to give a very good fix without drilling. Much better IMHO than a "conventional" woodscrew with three drilling operations. Doesn't need to be perfect if much better!
On Wed, 18 Jul 2007 11:00:06 +0100, Frank Erskine mused:
Have a look in a Screwfix book, or better still order some screws and screw bits of wood together.
That's what I did. I was ordering 'normal' screws for a large project and couldn't help but notice the turbogold ones that they seemed to be pushing. I ordered some for experimental purposes but suspected that they would be shit. (like all the creosote substitutes) I was totally wrong, I now use them whenever I can, the old slot head conventional screws are rusting in the boxes!
Julian.
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