Screwfix Drywall Fixings..

[RzB]

Apart from the price, does any know what the difference is between these two items...

thanks, Roy

[Grunff]

about half the cases, they ended up damaging the pasterboard as I tightened the screw.

I've found this type to be far better:

[Lobster]

David

[Andy Hall]

[Grunff]

Yes, I have those too, and they're very good. I tend to use the plastic ones for light stuff (e.g. hanging a picture) and the metal ones for heavier things (e.g. curtain poles).

[Dave Liquorice]

Look at the images and text. One has single point and parallel thread tips, the other 3 points and conical thread tips. Different manufacturer with different, presumably trade, marked names.

[RzB]

Gents, Many thanks for the responses..

This type has been recommended to me by the guy doing my plastering...

I have had a wall (brick, breeze block, plastered, but a mess) dry lined with dabs of some "glue stuff" and plaster board. I will be hanging kitchen units on this wall.. The plasterer has made sure there are generous dabs where the wall cupboard fixings are to go.

I guess I might get away with normal fixings but just longer?

Roy

[Grunff]

I would certainly not want to use them to hang kitchen cupboards from. They pull out of the plaster too easily.

If the plasterer made sure there is plasterboard adhesive where the fixings will go, then it's easy - just use 4" long screws and normal plugs.

If you find areas without adhesive, my choice would be to cut back the plasterboard around the area, and fill it with one-coat. Once that's gone off, drill and fix.

[RzB]

Hmm - not sure the different text gives a lot away.. and two extra points for a 50% hike in price... :-)

Roy

[RzB]

"Grunff" wrote >

Hmmm - so what sort of plugs do I use with a 4" screw?

Many thanks for your help.

Roy

[Andy Hall]

Big ones :-)

Another solution is to use injection fixings.

You drill holes 2mm larger than the threaded stud, clean them and inject the special resin. The studs are screwed in and the resin left to cure for a few hours. For an item like a cupboard with fixed centres a template should be made.

[RzB]

Hmm - yes I'm familair with that mechanism but it seems a bit overkill for kitchen cabinets!!!

These are the brackets that fit to the wall...

Perhaps I could get away with 3" screws and use these...

[Grunff]

The type used with frame fixings, like

?id=56427&ts=42324(the Fischer ones are excellent quality)

You're most welcome.

[RzB]

D'oh... I must be loosing it - I have just purchased some of them to fit a door lining into Thermalite blocks...

They are 8x120.... As you can see...

the holes in the brackets will need opening up a bit unless I can get some slightly smaller diameter versions...

I'll look around for these tomorrow...

Many thanks for your help. Roy

[Dave Liquorice]

The trade names. B-)

I didn't look that closely. Anyway they are not suitable to hang kitchen cupboards on. Take the already offered suggestions of a normal screw into the real wall behind the plasterboard.

[Andy Hall]

Depends. Are the walls brick or Thermalite blocks?

I tried using some frame fixings to make attachments into some for a cupboard and was not comfortable with the strength of the result.

This was with fixings similar to one of the ones that Grunff listed

don't have a lot of expanding plastic at the tip.

The Fischer ones do and would be fine, I suspect

that frame fixings are normally for going sideways into masonry and the item being fixed is normally fitted into an opening and can't be pulled directly outwards. Really all that this type of fixing has to do is to be able to stand some sideways force on occasions.

Admitedly a fixing for a cupboard has to mainly stand sideways forces also, but there is the possibility of pulling out and I feel more comfortable with something more substantial.

[Richard Downing]

Kitchen upper cupboards need to be attached to the breezeblock (assuming that's the inside leaf of the cavity :-) through any plaster.

For my own design of kitchen cabinet I use a long cleat of 300x18 WBP plywood ripped at 45 degrees with one half attached to the wall with frame fixings, e.g.:

the other screwed and glued to the cabinet so that the 45 deg. section acts a hook. The wall cleat is levelled round the room with a laser-level. Then I put more frame fixings through the cabinet to the wall.

You can climb up my cabinets, or use them for calisthenics! Think about how much a full earthenware dinner service weighs.

R.

[RzB]

Many thanks to all for the very good advice...

BTW - I emailed Screwfix to find out the differences... here is the answer..

"Quote 11595 ( Metal Easi-Driver ) is supplied to us by a Swiss company called 'MUNGO' and Quote 11923 ( Metal Redi-Driva ) is supplied by a French company called ITW Spit."

So there you have it - French 50% more expensive!

Roy

[Andy Hall]

That's really surprising. Normally the boot is on the other foot.