SBC lamp holders

[Kaptain Kremin]

I appreciate I'm probably looking in all the wrong places but I don't seem able to find any surface mount small bayonet cap lamp holders, any got any idea's?

Thanks.

[BigWallop]

If you mean a Small Bayonet Connector Batten Holder, then here's one

are a lot more search hits for these, so have a look around yourself on the web.

[BigWallop]

> There are a lot more search hits for these, so have a look around yourself > on the web.

I've just found out that a search for SBC Batten brings up hundreds of hits. :-)

[Owain]

brass SBC lamp holder mounted on a metal base fitted with 4mm sockets. Complete with lamp. Lamp holder only (no lamp) £4.00

Owain

[Malcolm H]

> There are a lot more search hits for these, so have a look around yourself > on the web.

What I would like to find is a GU10 connector batten holder. There are plenty with wire connections* but I can't seem to find the GU10 equivalent of a SBC batten holder.

• see:

[BigWallop]

>

When you see the price of them

you'll see why they are not popular. :-)

[Andy Dingley]

Most GU10 lamps run hot, so connecting right next to the base isn't a good idea, especially not with screw terminals and a lamp that's switched on and off a lot. Hence the pigtail leads to take you somewhere cooler.

[Malcolm H]

The holder and bulb referenced in the previous post (from BigWallop) is specified to produce light equivalent to a 75W tungsten bulb yet is consumes only 15W. I would not expect this to run hot!

I have a GU10 bulb with 18 LEDs which consumes 1-2W producing no heat detectable by finger yet it produces a very useful amount of light.

What leads you to believe that GU10 lamps run hot?

Malcolm

[Andy Dingley]

I don't, I wrote that _most_ GU10 lamps run hot. The whole design of the GU10 lampholder was to cope with this, and also to do it safely for 240V. Voltage and safety issues aside, the old straight skinny pin GU4 base of the "classic" 12V dichroic was a reliability nightmare. The spring pressure on the contacts isn't enough for something that's temperature cycled and they'll develop high resistance contacts (cue overheating and burnt insulators) after a few years.

The fact that many GU10 lamps, and an increasing number of them, are now some "cold" technology doesn't change the original reasons behind the design of the lampholder. Nor is it particularly likely that we'll see many "cold use only" lampholders, for risk that some careless Driveller plugs a "hot" lamp into it afterwards.

[BigWallop]

What temperature does a 50Watt GU10 lamp get to? What temperature does

50Watt GLS lamp get to? What's the difference between an ABS GU10 Batten Holder and an ABS BC Batten Holder?

[Andy Dingley]

Much the same for both lamp, however the lampholders and contacts get a lot hotter as they're smaller and closer to the heat source, so there's less loss of heat between source and contacts.

Also GU10 aren't really the problem, it was the even smaller GU4 where this seriously affected reliability.

[Kaptain Kremin]

Kaptain Kremin wrote in message news: [e-mail]...

Thanks all. I did actually Google and seemed to get loads of links to lamps and all sorts of other things but no holders.

Thanks again.

[BigWallop]

Much the same for both lamp, however the lampholders and contacts get a lot hotter as they're smaller and closer to the heat source, so there's less loss of heat between source and contacts.

Also GU10 aren't really the problem, it was the even smaller GU4 where this seriously affected reliability.

So the design of the GU10 batten holder, I presume, would compensate for the hotter terminal contacts? If not, why not? Surely the designer and manufacturer would know that the contacts get hotter because they're closer to the heat source?

Now I'm confused.