Sanilav Units

These type of boxes look ugly on the back of WCs, and give the game away that a Sanilav is there. Is it possible to have a back to wall WC against a wall with the Sanilav box in a cupboard behind the wall, hiding the Sanilav box, complete with WC cistern as well?

Can the Sanilavs also take a basin and shower in an en-suite? I am more interested in the Sanilav that has a 22mm waste pipe.

TIA

Reply to
timegoesby
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The company make an integrated toilet - the saniflo is built into the pan, and there is no cistern, and they do a concealed one.

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Reply to
auctions

Indeed. My en-suite toilet is fitted in just this manner, although not with a concealed cistern.

The main problem is finding a method of extending the spigot through the wall whilst still managing to stick it through the hole on the machine. Standard UK soil pipe sizes are not suitable. After engaging in conversation for 30 minutes with about four people in Graham (customers and staff) about the problem, I noticed that a flexible toilet connector with all the rubber flaps cut off by Stanley gives the effective size required to within a mm. You may find that a back to wall pan doesn't require extension anyway.

No problem here, but remember that the shower needs to gravity feed the pump, which can mean mounting it some way off the floor. I opted instead to fit a separate shower effluent pump so that the shower tray could be mounted lower.

Note that rather than going with Saniflo, I am fitting a Sanisplit, a rival device that has the advantage of simple disassembly (no need to disconnect plumbing), when the inevitable blockages occur.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Thanks. The Sanipak looks the job and uses 22mm discharge piping. I have now thought that maybe a washing machine could go on this. The web site says the Sanipak can do a full bathroom. An en-suite and a washing machine can't be that much different to a full bathroom.

Reply to
timegoesby

Be careful, washing machines need a specifically compatible pump, as they (a) contains lots of chemicals in the outflow and (b) have pumped, non gravity connection. They do exist, but it is a definite selling point and the facility would be mentioned in the marketing.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Thanks. The Sanisplit does not have a small 22mm discharge pipe. I do like the idea of splitting the plumbing from the electric motor. If you have a blockage then I don't see an advantage, only if the there is electrical problems.

The Saniflo Sanipak looks the part for an en-suite. I just contacted the tech dept of Saniflo. They say that the Sanipak is only for an en-suite shower room only. The one for a washing machine and an en-suite is the Sanibest, which is just under =A3200 more. Ouch. They say a Multifit connector, available from B&Q, can fit the WC to the Sanipak or Sanibest.

Anyone know of any other makers besides Saniflo and Sanisplit?

Reply to
timegoesby

It is not just the motor, but the grinder/impeller that separates off. All that is left behind are the plumbing connections and the holding tank.

You're looking in the wrong place. I can find the Sanipak for £343 and the Sanibest for £437, so it is less than £100 more. These prices are inclusive of VAT and delivery.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

You should note that the equivalent Sanisplit, the "3 Combi" is only £290, although it does, as you say, require 32mm pipework. The Sanisplits do offer more flexible pipe routing, though.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

I did a Google and found that most rate the Sanisplit over the Saniflo. Many thought the Sanibest good and superior to the cheaper Saniflo models.

I have done some thinking, and I will not know the situation until I raise some floorboards and see what is under. More questions have arisen.

I could use a Sanisplit 3 combi and have 32 or 40mm pipe gradually drop all the way to the soil stack 15 foot away. Taking 110mm pipe through the floor void maybe not practical. Or is it? Can a 110mm pipe just gradually fall not far off horizontal? Would having a larger pipe than

22mm dropping to the stack from the macerator be an advantage? If blocked would it be easier to unblock the unit?

The other alternative is a Sanibest with a 22mm copper pipe rising to the loft, across the loft and connect to the stack through the eves.

Are the marine all in one pan/macerator units any better than Saniflo or Sanisplit?

Reply to
timegoesby

You have to be careful if you go horizontal and then down before hitting the stack. You should switch to 40mm for the down pipe to avoid syphonage of the traps, as the line is unvented. However, horizontal straight into the stack is fine, provided there is sufficient fall (you need much less than with gravity flow).

Basically yes, although there needs to be a reasonable slope.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Are you saying use 40mm all the way. That is, from the macerator, gradual slant down, a bend, and a more increased slant to the stack? If so will this stop siphoning of the toilet trap?

Is this 1:40? If so, I "might" get it.

Reply to
timegoesby

On 16 Jun 2006 09:08:37 -0700 someone who may be snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com wrote this:-

Most unlikely, except for a relatively short run.

It would probably be more likely to block, because with 22mm pipe the contents are pushed along at some pressure down the narrow pipe. A larger pipe means there will be a lower pressure. When it does block there will be more liquid to deal with in a larger pipe.

These things are designed for that sort of pipe and it is far less likely to spring a leak.

Reply to
David Hansen

With a Sanisplit the pipe size is 32 or 40mm. I would guess the pump can deal with this sort of pipe size and would be matched to suit.

Do you mean the pipe or unit? A copper pipe with compression joints, to easily disconnect in case of a blockage, or ramming points, is unlikely to leak at all.

Reply to
timegoesby

A soil pipe fall is 1:40 (every 40 inches in length the pipe drops an inch), IIRC, which over 15 foot (4.5m) gives a difference in levels of ~114mm. Over the 4.5 metres, if there is more than a drop of 114mm (5") in the floor space from one end to the other (most do have more), a 110mm soil pipe can be fitted. I would have it solvent welded rather than use push fit fittings, well clipped, wrapped in Rockwool to muffle noises and have rodding point at at bends.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

The inherent problem is not leaks in the pipe but the macerator refusing to work. The only thing you can guarantee with absolute certainty is that sooner or later and with depressing regularity this is going to occur. It is a design feature.

When it does, if you have pipes going upwards then what goes up is going to come down. Combined with what you have just had to spoon out of the pan (guess when it is going to refuse to start?) and what is fermenting in the macerator chamber (and about to spill all over the floor when you loosen the pipes) it really doesn't pay to have these things difficult to access.

If you add a washing machine then the fibrous dross from the washing and the increased bacterial growth caused by modern low temperature powders means you will become very familiar with both the internal workings of the unit and bleach.

Reply to
Peter Parry

I have Goggled, and your name comes up a lot. Surely the SaniBest, a commercial unit, is the better option if fitting one of these. This must be more reliable and man enough to handle most domestic matter that does down a toilet. You appear to be the one most aggrieved by these toilet pumps, while others seem to think them not bad. Is it that you had a poor model, or a Friday nighter?

Fitting one of these units saves a lot of hassle. Depending on what I see under the floor, I maybe could get a 110 soil pipe in the floor void. Goggling tells me that is a 1:40 fall, but others say it can be even less than this. Installing the drain maybe more hassle, because of the less comeback factor it is worth doing it. The 110mm soil pipe it the first option. Then the next option is a Saniflow SaniBest either running a 22mm up and over the loft to the stack or dropping down under the floor (better if blocked), or a Sanisplit dropping down under the floor, again better if the macerator is blocked.

I am considering buying a house to develop and sell on. I want to add an en-suit to the main bedroom. I prefer toilets which are back to wall to keep the pace taken up by the en-suit to a minimum. I can do this as a large a cupboard is on the other side of the wall to where the en-suite can go. It is, en-suite, 4" brick wall, 3 foot wide cupboard, 3 foot of hallway then 12 foot or so of bathroom with a toilet at the end on an elbow, two foot of soil pipe and then the stack outside.

The bathroom is being stripped out and redone. If I can get this 110mm soil pipe under the floor with the minimum fall, and the joists go that way, I am made. The cupboard can also have a washing machine and "condensing" tumble dryer stacked, so power, water and drains for each of these will be fitted.

The easiest option is the SaniBest fitted in the cupboard under a lid concealing it, and all appliances drain into this. Any potential buyer would see a neat uncluttered en-suite and not even know there is a SaniBest there. I would rather not as the 110mm soil pipe is the first choice Saniflo is the last resort.

You people are making me think, giving greater options and a superior finished product. One point. If I can get a 110mm soil pipe 15 foot under the bathroom floor, with a ~1:40 fall, can I tee into this pipe under the bathroom floor and have the bathroom toilet run into it? This is two toilets on this one 110mm soil pipe. Can I also tee the wash basin into this 110mm pipe using a HepVO traps, which act as AAVs? This gives great flexibility in rearranging the bathroom, if this can be done.

Sorry to go about this. I find that knowing heating and plumbing is half the battle in renovating, as there are so many options. Knowing how it all fits together and the options gets me out of trouble and delivers a superior product, which usually ends up cheaper for me. I have learnt so much from this forum over the years and I nearly always can come out with a better design than the local plumbers, by miles. BTW, thanks IMM for the outside mounted Rinnai multi-point water heater tips.

Reply to
timegoesby

Quite possibly - it overcomes a major issue with the others which is the grater type macerator. These are very easy to stop with fibrous material, even a Q Tip will do it.

It tends to be the things which shouldn't go down the toilet but do which is the major problem. Small children drop all sorts of things in toilets and usually all that happens is that you lose them. With a grinder macerator almost all will cause blockages, with a screw type only some will. Once a blockage occurs clearing it is not pleasant.

No, I wouldn't have one under any circumstances - the engineering concept is simply too daft. However I have cleared blockages in them (a severe test of friendship!).

Reply to
Peter Parry

The SaniBest, a commercial unit, is the better choice, even you say that. In Engineering the Sanisplit is the best, but how it can be unblocked by not getting to the water container, as Christian said it could I don't know. The electrical section simply lifts away which is a great bonus. If Sanisplit made a commercial unit, I don't know if they do, then that is the one to go for.

Reply to
timegoesby

The water container and the macerator/motor sections separate with rubber seals falling into place to reduce leakage. I can't imagine the seals will be 100% effective and I'd expect some leakage during the separation process, but I bet it's a lot better than physically removing the pipes!

Profisplit 1000. £390 inc VAT.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

"Better choice" only in the sense of "Would you prefer Black Death or Smallpox?".

Reply to
Peter Parry

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