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I have found a possible UPS that is rated as 3000AV/2250W. That is a power rating, but how long could I expect it to realistically last if I draw say
200W? What is 3000AV expressed as Ahr? eg; is it better than 110Ahr?It looks like a genny is the best way to go!!
I have found a possible UPS that is rated as 3000AV/2250W. That is a power rating, but how long could I expect it to realistically last if I draw say
200W? What is 3000AV expressed as Ahr? eg; is it better than 110Ahr?It looks like a genny is the best way to go!!
3000AV/2250W is just the maximum power it can supply and gives no indication of how long it can supply that power for. There should be another figure in the spec. that indicates how long it can supply that (or less) power for. 110Ahr indicates the capacity of the battery only if you know the voltage as well. Assuming a 12 volt battery that makes 110 x 12 watt hours, allowing for inefficiency and losses say something like 1kwh, i.e. 1000 watts for an hour.
Could be, it's probably simpler in many ways and might have other uses as well.
I don't think that you can deduce anything about *capacity* from the
3000AV/2250W information. If I understand this correctly, they are both power ratings - the first being for capacitative loads and the second for resistive loads.You need to find out how long it will provide power at 2250w. Then, roughly, if you are only using 200w it should last 11 times as long.
Roger
A large car battery will be 70 amp/hour or very roughly 1000 watt/hours, but I'd half that in practice.
It's impossible to tell without knowing the capacity of the UPS, but in my experience of using them over the years, you typically get 5 minutes on full load and 15-20 on half load. (Except for 'extended run' types which have more battery capacity). The discharge curve is very non-linear when they are running over half load, but reasobably linear below that.
So, drawing 200W, thats approx 1/10th of the capacity you might expect it to last one to 1.5 hours... But thats jsut a guess based on what I've used over the past few years.
VA doesn't equate to run-time at all. Amp hours is literally that - 110 Amp hours would be 110 amps for one hour, or 220 for half an hour, or 55 for 2 hours, but look out for the continuous current draw which is usually quoted too. Eg. if it was 110Ah at 55 amps then it would give you 2 hours at 55 amps, but much less than 1 hour if you sucked 110 amps out of it.
Possibly. It does depend on how long you think the powers going to be out for...
Gordon
I presume you would have a battery with an 'always on' charger and take the pump feed from that. Assuming that the 'always on' chargers can supply enough juice to run the pump, you would have a seamless transition from power to no power and back. You could even add 12v lighting circuits and alternative inputs to the battery (or batteries) such as solar panels and wind power. First step to a suistainable lifestyle and selling power back to the grid :-)
Cheers Dave R
You might well for the pump, but the boiler usually has mains electrics too. Also the programmer. Of course, all this *could* be designed for 12 volt DC and incorporated with some form of UPS, but I'd say it would be far too expensive for most, given the relatively rare power cuts in *most* of this country. For those who live in areas - usually very rural - where there is a problem, a standby generator would be the best bet anyway.
Fine as a hobby, but really not worth the effort as a genuine standby.
I have run the heating pump with a computer ups for short time.
Impressive: 18 year old thread - is this a hoh record?
No its not the oldest. Unfortunately that web site is pretty buggy and seems not to always present dates in a place where its obvious they belong to a particular thread. Bout time it wads excommunicated from Usenet till it cleans up its act.
However on running central heating from batteries, I think you need to do more than run a pump, You need an inverter and to effectively replace the mains with the output from it at a suitable rating. Brian
Maybe the post is so old the only thing electric about the CH is the pump.
It gets deeper than that - many boilers will use flame rectification to sense when the burner is lit. So you need to make sure that your inverter / genny setup is also referenced to a shared earth with the boiler. Otherwise it will probably lockout due to what it thinks is a flame failure.
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