The wooden beeds holding the DG panels in place are beginning to deteriorate (15 years). They are easy enough to replace but are faced with a ribbed rubber strip for the glass. Anyone any ideas where to get I can get this or what alternatives might be used ?
In article , snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com writes
Silicone is commonly used in place of the rubber strip but if it is the common kind (acetoxy cure - vinegar smelling) then it needs to be between the bead and glass only as it will attack the DG seal. Neutral cure (at 4 times the price) can be slapped anywhere and can even be used to fill the void between glass & frame if you are really worried about water ingress.
My preference is for the tape but can't help with a supplier as I got a part reel from a friendly glazier a while back which will probably last me forever,
Yep, that's what I pay for acetoxy cure too, ask a glazier for neutral cure silicon and he won't know what your talking about, "this is what we always use mate" but acetoxy cure is not for use in contact with DG seals. The only place I could find some at short notice guaranteed to be neutral cure was RS where it was 6.28 a pop _plus_ the vat. (That was after trying to buy neutral at Screwfix only to find it was bloody acetoxy).
He flippin' well should know what he's talking about... the stuff I buy at £1.65 is "low modulus neutral cure", white or clear. The other stuff is cheaper.
Exactly. Avoid the "glazier" you've been going to!
Hey come on guys, you've highjacked my mail. Silicon is all very well but it locks the beed to the glass which is pretty undesirable for maintenance. These beeds are about 20mm square cross section softwood and are held in with pins. I intend to replace them with hardwood held in with screws. But as asked there is a rubber strip that is needed.
"Silicone". The glass itself contains a large proportion of silicon.
Bead. Bead, Bleed n bead. Bread, which I want. Breed, which I feel like attempting.
Why? Are you going to constantly be fetching out the panels?
I dunno. Is the gasket glued to the bead, rebated in, or what? If you're replacing, why not just use LMN (cure) silicone, and screw 'em on as you suggest (hopefully there's enough "meat" to screw into - use brass screws - be *very* careful that you do not catch the edge of the DG unit witg metal, or... crack!!). Apply sparingly but enough, squidge on, finish with a Stanley knife and a glass scraper.
In article , snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com writes
Sorry you didn't like the silicone option but you did ask for alternatives so I think the discussion about silicon types and costs was spot on. I mentioned it because you can't lay tape without a discontinuity which could let in moisture in an exposed location but you can get a continuous seal with silicone.
For tape, have a look in Yellow Pages under Glaziers' Supplies (3 in my area) or sweet talk a glazier, glazing tape is the common name.
You might want to have a think about security on windows with easy to remove (screwed) glazing bars.
OK - but this is not glaziers tape, it is just a 'rubber' buffer, almost like draught excluder, between the wooden bead (!) and dg panel which is being held in. As far as 'permanency' is concerned, I found it much easier to dismantle the whole window for repainting, rather than struggle with stripping, etc with the window in place.
As far as security is concerned, if someone wanted to break into the house I think they would find an easier way to do it !
In article , snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com writes
Sounds like what passes for glaziers' tape up here, closed cell foam, self adhesive one side, grooved profile on the other. When I've had some glass supplied and fitted the same tape has been used on the inside of the frame & to seal the glazing bead. I've also used security glazing tape, the double side adhesive tape, for ground floor windows
The benefit is that it's silent entry, makes sense if a window isn't overlooked.
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