Routing Kitchen Worktop

I am in need of putting a worktop joint into a 'standard' laminated worktop. I already have the worktop, and no-one around seems to be willing to cut it for me.

I have discovered that Jewson hire out a router and the appropriate jig.

How easy is the task? I am fine at basic carpentry, but draw the line at anything approching 'sculpture'

Any tips/recommendations?

Neal

Reply to
Neal Harwood
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I was tempted to do mine this way. I ended up cutting the joint by hand with a panel saw. For my job it was a simple straight cut with a

45 degree mitre at the end. A slow, steady, relaxed saw-stroke does it. The danger of messing up an expensive worktop added a small thrill but then, I'd already let the other end into the stud and plasterboard wall, just in case a second try was needed I was so glad to avoid all that jig purchase/hire stuff and sawing boards by hand brings back such happy memories.
Reply to
Mike Halmarack

In article , Neal Harwood writes

I did ours with a hired Jewson router and jig. It was nowhere near as difficult as I feared, although you don't get any instructions with it so you need to know roughly what you are doing.

The end result is a lot better than many of the professionally fitted worktops I see. I wouldn't be scared of doing it again.

Reply to
Tim Mitchell

how much is the hire of router/jig? Are they able to cope with joining worktops at 45deg as opposed to 90?

Reply to
a

Don't know what Jewson's hire charges are but there are jigs available to buy at reasonable prices now:

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Reply to
mike

My experience exactly, except that I had a router already and hired the jig (complete with good instructions and video) from HSS. Follow the instructions to the letter, measure everything very carefully and you should find it's not difficult at all.

Reply to
rrh

In my case, jig about £16 for a day from HSS. As far as I know, all jigs are designed for 90 degree joints. Can't see why on earth you would want a 45 degree joint if you can do a 90: you waste far more worktop that way.

Reply to
rrh

Some will do 22.5 degrees as well so that you can create a corner with a length of straight worktop for a hob or sink.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

I find this surprising. Any good woodworking place should be prepared to do it - about £55 is the going rate for a butt/scribe joint round here (South Manchester).

Reply to
G&M

I meant with the worktop bending round just 45 degrees rather than a 90 degree bend

Reply to
a

diy'ers?)

Reply to
a

In article , a writes

It cost about 25 quid from Jewson for the jig and the router, not including the cutters which were about 12 pounds (I got 2 as I had 2 joints to do).

None of the HSS shops in our area (East Yorks) had jigs for hire. Maybe it is a regional thing.

Reply to
Tim Mitchell

Yeah, but £19.38 seems quite reasonable, particularly if the hire charge is £16/day: Contract Worktop Jig

High density laminated fibreboard jig for standard left-handed, right-handed and peninsular joints. Use a router with a 30mm guide bush. Pegs included.

Code 68859 Contract Worktop Jig 900mm £19.38

Reply to
mike

Try the first item on the list (Contract Worktop Jig), 19.38 inc vat

Reply to
John Armstrong

Buy a known brand like Trend and when you've finished, sell it on Ebay. The economics looks a lot more attractive then.

MBQ

Reply to
MBQ

Ah, thats better! Shame you cant just download a template you could print out and make your own :o)

Reply to
a

What you need is a worktop jig jig to get the cuts right on your homemade worktop jig.

When I did my kitchen, I did make my own cutting guides out of mdf. I was using quite cheap worktops though, and I had the old worktops to have a trial run first. Worked OK. Not perfect, but passable, depending how fussy you are. The walls were a few degrees out of square though, so not sure how easy the proper jigs would have been to set up. I also managed to do it with my 1/4 inch power devil router.

Reply to
John Armstrong

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