Roundup strength

[Broadback]

Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted, Roundup 3000 or Roundup 450? TIA

[usenet2013xxa]

In message , Broadback writes

360g/L

450g/L

hth

[Lawrence]

Why do you buy Roundup? It is only glyphosate and there are plenty of cheaper suppliers out there.

[fred]

Such as ?

[Bob Minchin]

Some pointers would be helpful. I tend to pick up a litre or two in France when on holiday but it is getting expensive there too now especially with the Euro exchange rate.

[Tim Watts]

On Wednesday 05 June 2013 14:29 Bob Minchin wrote in uk.d-i-y:

£36 but will nuke 1400m2, ie my entire garden about 4 times over.

I have some and it works at the stated dilution. In terms of killing area it is vastly cheaper than anything in the garden centre.

There are cheaper ones, marked "professional only" and the only real difference is they are often larger quantities and no inbuilt measuring dispenser (get a syringe or finely marked flask). IIRC they come in 1/2-1/4 the price per killing area.

But the 1L bottle above was sufficient for me and will probably last several years.

[Tim Streater]

And a 1lt bottle of R3000 will last me 10 years or so.

[Jim K]

really? how much are you diluting it?

I am 1/2 way down my second 5 litre jug of conc glyphos (think its

360g) in 10 years just keeping path & patio weeds, invasive brambles etc in check...ISTR 1/4 pint in a 6 litre sprayer.

Jim K

[Bob Minchin]

LTR-/140956817199?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Fertiliser_CV&hash=item20­d1a

I normally mix 360gm/l concentrate 1:20 with water giving 18gm/l

Jim, It seems like you are working (with mixed units!) at about 42:1 or

9gm/l

[Lawrence]

Have a look at

No connection, etc. Just a satisfied customer.

[Jim K]

I just goggled 360I dilution & it say 10ml per litre water.

So my 1/4 pint is approx 140ml per 6 litres -oops twice as much as could be.

Bob you appear to be doubling what I use according to your calcs?! That's 4 x more than on spec sheet!

Jim K

[Martin Brown]

more than on spec sheet!

Glyphosate is one of those things where applying excess actually results in a poorer kill since it kills the tops quicker and doesn't allow time for the stuff to translocate throughout the plant. So not only do you waste 2x or 4x the amount you needed to use but you fail to kill the entire weed and then have to do the whole job again!

Won't kill ivy or holly seedlings or for some strange reason buttercup.

It will kill grass though which a neighbour who thought they were using a broadleaf specific grass safe weedkiller learnt the hard way.

Actually grass is so sensitive to it that if you have overspray on boots you can end up leaving footprints or outline footprints.

[Java Jive]

Correct. It's what is called a systemic weedkiller - a simple form of which is just a 'normal' weedkiller diluted down. This means that the leaves don't die straight away, so the weedkiller get translocated around the plant, particularly down into its roots, and, although the plant is killed more slowly, the entire plant is killed, rather than just the greenery burnt off the top of it.

Holly has waxy leaves, off which it probably runs away rather than hanging around to penetrate.

I suspect it depends on the type of buttercup. The worst buttercup is creeping buttercup (ranunculus repens), which, like stinging nettles and brambles, other things that also Roundup probably won't kill first time, has many layers of roots and offshoot roots. You kill off one layer, and part of the plant not reached by the translocation of herbicide sprouts in its place. However, spraying each new regeneration will eventually ensure that the entire plant is permeated, or if not at least exhaust the plant's reserves of energy because it is being repeatedly asked to send up shoots without receiving enough energy through photo-synthesis to make up the energetic cost of so doing, and it should eventually die. This will work much better though if you start by donning gloves, for the nettles and brambles, and pulling up by hand as much of the root network as you can, then spraying the inevitable regrowth.

Yes, it's a GP plant killer, as you say NOT a broad-leaved weed-killer.

[Tim Streater]

As per the instructions, about 20cc to one litre of water in a sprayer. That's worked on everything so far. During March I go round and spray all the nettles, brambles, and cleavers that are starting to show through, plus the driveway. Driveway needs attention throughout the summer though.

OK - thinking about it, 10 years is too long. It was 10 years at the old house and it'll prolly be a lot less than that here.

[Jim K]

's 4 x more than on spec sheet!

kills my ivy - must be the extra strength ;>)

Jim K

[Andrew Gabriel]

more than on spec sheet!

I've made that mistake in the past - picked up the wrong weedkiller spray. Grass grew back quite quickly.

Council managed to kill a chunk of my front lawn when zapping the pavement, and overshooting onto the lawn.

That reminds me - I did once have a bag of lawn treatment which contained moss killer, broad leaf killer, and fertilizer. It worked extremely well. When it finally ran out, I bought some more, and the broad leaf killer is now almost completely useless. It only works if you put on enough that the grass dies too. Is this an area where where some effective product has been withdrawn? The stuff which doesn't work is branded Westland Garden Health. The stuff which worked was a different brand, which I can't remember now.

[Jim K]

aha that's pretty much what I'm using - 140ml of conc to ~6 litres water.

Odd how first spec sheet I googled to check rate for 360g gear (upthread) said 10ml per litre?

oh well

Jim K

[Andrew Gabriel]

Driveway probably wants something like Pathclear, which is a mixture of glyphosate (to kill what's growing now) and a germination inhibitor to prevent new growth starting afterwards.

[Tim Streater]

Sounds just the ticket, but got rather mixed reviews on Amazon. Klods there asking if the formulation has changed recently.

[Martin Brown]

Fairly recently they removes Simazine(sp) from the domestic use formulation because it was a bit too good at what it did and people don't read the instructions. A couple of years back I think.