Rising damp

[Tim Lamb]

Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that silicone injection not worth the money.

However. I have damp in an internal wall (was end of house plus range chimney opening) which I suspect might be due to the extension builders bridging the existing slate damp course.

The other possibility is condensation as it is the *utility area* with clothes washing and separate tumble drier (exhausted outside).

Also, above is a cold loft area.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft red brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

[The Natural Philosopher]

Bollocks to that. I lived in a house that was injected, all bar the internal spine walls and the fireplace. I know where rising damp blew plaster and rotted floorboards and carpet.

Where it wasn't injected.

I guess tehres no need for a damp course either :-)

You sure there aver was a damp course?

No, but first of all you have a range of possibilities beyond *rising* damp to explore.

injection only helps if you have *rising* damp.

[tabbypurr]

In over 99% of cases damp is not rising.

NT

[The Natural Philosopher]

Because 99% of houses have a working damp proof course.

[Tim Lamb]

I found slate elsewhere. Prolly Victorian with slate roof so likely.

Yes. Got that:-)

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[Tim Lamb]

OK. I watched their video. If there is a dpc it is below floor screed so I can only easily do above. This is 9" soft red brick.

[harry]

I have done a whole house, worked well. You need to be sure it IS rising damp & not condensation.

Easy job if tedious. You can hire the pump (and drill if you don'r have one) at local tool hire shop. They will sell you the chemicals.

Plenty of info on youtube about how to go on.

[Tim Lamb]

The wall is now inside: under a lean-to extension which has a cold attic space.

Did I once read an elegant way of distinguishing condensation from damp in here?

Still there but overclad with insulation and then feather edge boarding. Something I had forgotten... my wife has a *pulley hauley* airing rack in the same area. The suspect area has a large wall hung radiator with apparent damp patches immediately above. Central heating only just gone on though. I can arrange more/ lower down ventilation for the chimneys fairly easily.

Dehumidifier not very practical. While this is a small area it is linked by the entrance hall to other parts of the house. Not easy to ventilate as we don't have fanlights on any windows. The vents are open and the gas boiler adds a bit of summer warmth as we don't use the immersion heater.

[tabbypurr]

you already have.

I don't know why, it would be the easy and nearest to definite solution option. You can get mini dehumidifiers.

NT

[Tim Lamb]

Yes. One moved there this morning. The practicality concern comes from the size of the unenclosed space.

[Mark Allread]

Now you tell us! :)

So what it seems you have is an enclosed, non-ventilated drying room with damp walls.

You do need to reduce moisture levels in the room either by not using it as a drying room or ventilation or dehumidifying...

One possible option could be to use the existing chimney areas and fit some kind of extractor cowl to the top of the chimney area. I've no idea how this could be achieved though - or could you fit an extractor fan at the top to pull the air up the chimney and out? Just thinking aloud.

[Tim Lamb]

Well it is above my eyeline when I am poking about in the freezer.

I am assured it is only my socks that *dry* there. The rest is stuff from the tumble drier being aired.

Yes. I think the first move is to make sure all three chimneys have vents at the lowest practical level.

I am still curious to learn why an internal wall should be colder than the exterior cavity walls where there is no apparent condensation. With a bit of effort, I could rearrange the canopy to drip rainwater clear of the bricks.

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